Saturday, 5 January 2008

It's Time to Order Your Vegetable Seeds!

At least it is if you have a garden. *sniff, sniff* Why yes, I am insanely envious of those lucky people who have access to a spot to grow their own veggies. I will just have to possess my soul in patience and continue to dream of the day when I too can get out and grub in the dirt.

For the few years that I did have a vegetable garden, we ordered seeds from Terra Edibles. They have a good selection in general and an impressive selection of tomatoes in particular. Tomatoes I remember growing and doing particularly well included Opalka, Amish Paste and San Marzano for canning, Principe Borghese for drying - they are not particularly nice fresh but are excellent dried, precisely because they are not at all sweet, - Yellow Pear, Striped German and especially Stupice for eating fresh. They also have tomatillo seed, which can be hard to find around here. I didn't have a lot of space so I barely scratched the surface of the tomatoes and didn't delve too deeply into the beans, the melons, the lettuce, the...

Check 'em out if you have a garden, and even if you don't you may want to cruise on over for a little drooling session.

Also have a look at Seeds of Diversity. This list has companies from all over Canada, including lots in Ontario.

Baked-Bean Style Bean Soup

Once you have cooked and eaten a ham, you are left with a ham-bone. The next step is to save whatever scraps of ham that are big enough to be used, and to make stock with the bone. Just stick it in a large pot with cold, filtered water to cover, and simmer gently for several hours. I highly recommend making sure that none of the cloves get in there; they've done their time and more will just make them bitter. Put it in the fridge overnight, and the next day skim off the fat (which I consider well worth keeping for cooking with.) Heat the stock enough to be liquid, and strain it from the bones and any bits of fat and skin that didn't render. You now have a culinary treasure. Don't cook your scrap ham bits with the stock though, or they will be sad and flavourless.

If you don't eat pork, you can also make excellent stock with smoked turkey parts (drumsticks seem to be the most commonly found.) The resemblance is impressive, and the flavour is just as good. I'll post a recipe with it soon.

6 to 8 servings
2 days - 20 to 30 minutes of actual work

Baked Bean Style Bean Soup8 cups ham stock
4 cups dried white pea beans (navy beans)
1 cup yellow split peas
3 -4 bay leaves
2 teaspoons black peppercorns, crushed
4 tablespoons molasses
5 tablespoons tomato paste
2 large carrots
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 cup diced ham
salt

Wash and pick over the beans, and put them in a pot with enough water to come up above them by 3 or 4 inches. Bring to a boil, turn off the heat, and soak overnight.

In the morning, drain the beans and add the ham stock and the split peas, bay leaves and pepper. Bring to a boil then simmer gently until the beans are tender.

Use a little stock to thin the molasses and tomato paste, and stir it into the soup.

Peel and dice the carrots. Add the carrots and ginger, and continue to simmer the soup until the carrots are tender. Add the ham, and add salt to taste (which will likely only be needed if your ham is unsalted.) Add water if the soup gets too thick; stir frequently to prevent scorching.

Bean soup is best made a day ahead and reheated. The flavours will have had time to blend and mellow.

Friday, 4 January 2008

Here Comes the Sun! - Pizza

I am feeling pretty cheerful today. I'm starting to notice that the days are getting longer, and when I pulled this pizza out of the oven, it shone up at me like a miniature sun. But tastier.

For a while, I have been wondering if I really do have problems eating wheat or if my ate-wheat-rash is actually caused by something that is added to the wheat. I am doing some experimenting. And very enjoyable experimenting it is too. I have been missing pizza badly. I confess my flour is not local, it's imported from Italy (it appears that European wheat doesn't cause my rash - go figure.) Whether it is the flour, or the recipe, I'm not sure, but this pizza dough has a soft, cakey quality to it.

Homemade Pizza Sliced
I made a very simple cheese and onion pizza, mainly because my fridge is pretty empty at the moment, except for ham stock. What toppings you put on are up to you, but I have concluded that pizza cooks quickly enough that it is often better if vegetable toppings are cooked or partly cooked before they go on. Some - mushrooms, tomatoes, green peppers - are fine raw. Greeny vegetables in general, such as broccoli, zucchini, cauliflower, or spinach are probably better blanched. They don't need much; just put them in a colander, pour boiling water over them and drain well. Onion slices I sauté in a smidge of oil until soft but not browned. Eggplant should be thoroughly cooked. Rare eggplant, bleaugh.

So... what are your favourite toppings for a home-made pizza, and how do you prepare them?

Homemade Pizza
Makes 6 slices; make of that what you will
2 hours - 45 minutes prep time, not all at once.

Making the Dough:

1 cup warm water
2 teaspoons fast-acting yeast

2 2/3 cups hard wheat flour (unbleached or whole wheat)
1 rounded teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup olive oil

Put the water, which should feel pleasantly warm but not hot to the touch, in a medium sized mixing bowl and sprinkle the yeast over it. Set aside as you prepare the flour.

Measure the flour and mix the sugar and salt into it. Put the oil into the bowl with the yeast and water, and mix in about 2/3 of the flour. Pour the remaining flour onto a clean counter or board, and when you have more-or-less mixed the remaining ingredients, turn them onto the pile of flour.

Knead the dough, working to amalgamate all the flour on the board. Once it is all in, knead until the dough is smooth and just slightly sticky. All this should not take long, just 3 or 4 minutes. Put a little oil into another bowl, add the ball of dough and turn it around to coat it in the oil. Cover it with a tea-towel and put it in a warm but not too hot place to rise until doubled in size; about 1 hour.

It can also be oiled and put in a plastic bag, and kept in the fridge for up to 3 days before being flattened out and baked - just be sure that it has doubled in size before you press it out. It will continue to rise, but slowly, in the fridge. Just keep an eye on it.

Forming and Baking the Pizza:

1 cup tomato sauce
1 teaspoon rubbed oregano

1 medium onion
2 teaspoons olive oil

300 grams mozzerella cheese, grated

Other toppings ad-lib: more cheese, cold cuts, thinly sliced vegetables, etc.

Preheat the oven to 500°F. Mix the oregano into the tomato sauce - any plain, not-too-thin sauce will do. Peel the onion and cut it in thin slices. Sauté them gently in the oil until soft but not browned.

Meanwhile, press the dough out to a flat disc on a 16" perforated pie plate. It should pretty much cover the plate evenly. Start from the middle, and work your way out.

Top the dough evenly with the tomato sauce and then the cheese. Sprinkle the onions over the top. Add whatever other toppings you like, keeping in mind that a little will go a very long way. We are partial to very thin slices of zucchini, if it is available, tomatoes, also fresh mushrooms and basil, and even thin blanched slices of broccoli. And - whisper it softly - garlic, anchovies and hot peppers.

Bake the pizza in the middle of the oven for about 15 minutes. Let it rest at least 5 minutes before slicing it - if you can!

Tuesday, 1 January 2008

Happy 2008

Happy New Year to all my visitors. I hope for a prosperous, successful and above all happy and healthy year for us all.

I've been food blogging for a few months now, long enough to have worked out a general format and long enough to start wondering how it can be improved. I would love it if regular readers and commenters, as well as new readers, lurkers and wanderers-by would take a moment to tell me what they think of this blog. What do you like, or not like? How could it be improved? What's missing, what's redundant?

Thanks very much!

Monday, 31 December 2007

Baked Bone-In Ham with Maple-Mustard Glaze

I had a hankering for ham for Christmas dinner and this is the recipe I used. A good bone-in ham can be hard to find but persevere, because it is such an enormous improvement over deboned or spiral-cut hams, which are often also processed in other ways that are not conducive to good eating. In particular, ham is very prone to being soaked in brine, gelatine and preservatives to increase the weight, but which of course makes it soggy, salty, and bland with that nasty preservative aftertaste. Smoked but uncooked is what you want. Most people prefer the shank end as being easier to deal with, and it seems to be much the easiest to find as well.

In spite of the higher-quality of most bone-in hams, they are likely to be cheaper than the more processed versions, since you are basically buying a recognizable chunk of smoked pig. You will have a little more waste however; there is the bone, and also you will likely need to trim off quite a bit of fat. I would not allow less than 1 pound per person when calculating how large a ham to buy, and twice that if you want left-overs. Which you do, I would think. To some degree, the smaller the ham, the more waste there is. And then of course, you can make stock with the bone which is great in soup or risottos.

10 to 20 servings, depending on size of ham
20 minutes per pound - plus 20 minutes prep time

Baked Bone In Ham with Maple Mustard GlazeI had somewhat different results with my two hams this season, even though both were bought at the same place and made with the same recipe. Whether the difference is in the oven, or in the ham itself - the first was a shank end, and the second a butt end - I don't know. The second one was much moister, and instead of needing to add water to the pan as it roasted, I needed to remove it. However, both were perfectly done and delicious.

Baked Bone In Ham with Maple Mustard GlazeTo Start the Ham:

1 5 to 6 kilogram (10 to 13 pound) smoked but uncooked bone-in ham
2 tablespoons whole cloves
water

Preheat the oven to 325°. Cut the skin and most of the subcutaneous fat from the ham. Leave a thin layer of the fat on the meat, to keep it moist, but it can be quite thin or even intermittant. Stick the ham evenly all over with the cloves at a distance of 1 1/2 to 2 inches apart. A neat diamond pattern is traditional, but it hardly matters. Put the ham, cut end down, in a roasting pan, and add water to come up about 1 inch. Cover the ham loosely with heavy foil, and place it in the oven. Roast it for 20 minutes per pound, roughly. I say roughly, because if I have bought, say for example, an 11 pound roast, I will likely have removed at least a pound of fat and skin, and so I would calculate for 10 pounds, which would be 3 hours and 20 minutes.

When the ham has one hour left to bake, remove it from the oven. Discard the aluminum foil, and cover the ham as evenly as you can with the glaze. Check the water level, and add some more if needed. You do not want to bring it back to the one inch level, but the bottom of the pan needs to be covered. You don't want the water to go completely, or the glaze and fat on the bottom of the pan will scorch. On the other hand, if there is still a great deal of liquid in the pan, you may wish to remove some, to bring the liquid level down to 1/2 inch or perhaps a little less. Do so before you put on the glaze, and save the liquid - it is the start of your ham stock.

To Make the Glaze:

1/2 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup hot mustard powder
2 tablespoons chick-pea flour
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, ground
1/2 teaspoon salt

When the ham goes into the oven, mix the above ingredients and let them sit as the ham cooks. Glaze as described above, when the ham has one hour left to cook.

To Finish:

When the ham comes out of the oven, let it rest for about 10 minutes before you carve it. While it does that, scrape out all the drippings from the pan into a gravy boat, de-fatting the sauce as much as possible. It will be more intensely flavoured than gravy, and should be applied discreetly. If it is too thin, put it in a pot and boil it down a bit. If too thick, add a little water and simmer until smooth.

Roasted Maple Butternut Squash and Pears

Eeek! I forgot to take a picture of this dish. Fortunately, one of my shots of the ham had quite a bit of the squash in it as well, and with a bit of judicious cropping you can get the general idea.

This is a bit sweeter than most of my squash dishes, but it makes a nice change.

4 servings
1 hour - 20 minutes prep time

Roasted Maple Butternut Squash and Pears
1 kilogram (2 1/4 pounds) butternut squash
2 tablespoons walnut, hazelnut or almond oil
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, coarsely crushed
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
3 large ripe pears, Bosc or Bartlett
3 tablespoons maple syrup

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Remove the seeds from the squash, and peel it. This was half of a very large squash, if you are wondering. Cut it into 1 centimetre slices, and toss it with the oil, pepper, salt and nutmeg in a large shallow roasting pan, such as a lasagne pan.

Peel the pears, core them, and cut them in eighths, and toss them in with the squash. Drizzle the maple syrup over them. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes, until tender and perhaps a little browned around the edges.

Sunday, 30 December 2007

Rutabaga with Caramelized Onions

Here is a somewhat simplified version of this recipe, from Epicurious, which was not a wildly complicated recipe to start with. I think it is improved by a generous garnish of parsley, if you have it, which unfortunately I didn't. The rich, caramelized onions go beautifully with the rutabaga. The caramelized onions do take some time to make, and require persistant stirring. The results, though, are well worth the effort.

4 servings
1 hour - 15 minutes prep time

Rutabaga with Caramelized Onions
1 large onion
2 tablespoons butter

4 cups diced rutabaga
1 tablespoon butter
salt and pepper

Peel and dice the onion. Put it in a large skillet with the butter over medium-low heat, and cook, stirring frequently, for about 45 minutes, until the onions are golden-brown. It may be necessary to reduce the heat to low towards the end of the cooking period to prevent them browning too much.

Meanwhile, peel and dice the rutabaga, and put it in a pot with water to cover. Bring to a boil, and boil gently for about 30 to 40 minutes, until tender. Drain it of all but a couple tablespoons of the cooking liquid, and mash it with the butter and salt and pepper.

Top with the caramelized onions, and a good sprinkling of parsley if liked and if available.

Friday, 28 December 2007

Spinach, Avocado & Mango Salad

This is, alas, neither local nor particularly seasonal. However, it is one of the best salads I have ever devised, in my less-than-humble opinion, and I made it to go with a Christmas dinner that was otherwise pretty much on-track. I made Winter Tomato Soup, Scalloped Potatoes, and a Baked Bone-In Ham with Maple-Mustard Glaze, as well as steamed Brussels sprouts. I didn't get any photos of the ham, but it was good enough that I plan to make it again soon, and hopefully without the madness of a family Christmas in full swing it will be easier to photograph and post.

But back to this salad: I love the combinations of the sweet and the slightly bitter, the smooth and the crunchy, the bright greens and yellows with the red and purple. This is definitely one of those things too good not to make once in a while.

4 servings
30 minutes prep time

Spinach Avocado and Mango Salad6 ounces baby spinach leaves
4 to 6 leaves of radicchio
8 to 12 small red radishes
1 small ripe mango
1 medium ripe avocado

the juice of 1 valencia orange
3 tablespoons hazelnut, walnut or almond oil
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed

Wash the spinach, and dry it well. Put it in a salad bowl, or individual salad bowls if you prefer. Wash and dry the radicchio, and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Mix it in with the spinach.

Wash the radishes, slice them and sprinkle them over the top of the salad(s). Peel the mango and avocado, and slice them, and arrange them over the salad.

In a small bowl or jar, mix the orange juice, oil, mustard, salt and pepper. Drizzle the dressing over the salads.

Kochtopf's Best Recipe of 2007 Event

Kochtopf is asking food bloggers to send in their best recipe for 2007, and I thought I'd give it a try. How very difficult it has been to choose!

To me, the best recipe is the one that uses food that is local, and in season, grown and produced by people who care about what they are doing. How else do you get that freshness and flavour? How else do you feel aligned with the yearly cycles of work and nature; in tune with the weather and the seasons as you cook and eat? In July, when I started this blog, light salads and dishes made with the long-awaited asparagus and strawberries were the best. Now the best recipes are ones that keep the kitchen, the body and the soul warm with long slow cooking and rich flavours that make you happy to snuggle inside, or give you the energy to get outside and engage the icy elements.

However, after some consideration, I have decided to re-post Cream of Celery Soup, which did not get nearly the attention during the year which I think it deserves. I don't know that I can say it's my best recipe, but it is certainly excellent, and exemplifies my attitude to food: simple food is the best food, if it is made with love, attention and good quality ingredients. (And, psst! I think it would make a great first course to a dish of Macaroni and Cheese!)

Cream of Celery Soup

4 to 6 servings
2 hours - 30 minutes prep time

1 large bunch celery
1 large onion
3 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup flour

4 cups ( 1 litre or 1 quart) chicken stock
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon dillweed
1/2 teaspoon coriander seed
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1 cup light cream

Wash and trim the celery, and chop it, leaves and all. It can be somewhat coarsely chopped; it's going to be puréed. But first it's going to be sautéed, so don't chop it too coarsely. Likewise peel and chop the onion.

Melt the butter in a large skillet, and sauté the onion and celery for 5 to 10 minutes, until they are soft and limp, but not browned. Sprinkle the flour over and cook until well absorbed and lightly browned in spots; a few more minutes.

Meanwhile put the chicken stock in a large pot with the bay leaves and dill. Grind the remaining spices as finely as possible, and add them as well. Add the celery and onion mixture. Simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the celery is very tender.

Purée the soup in batches that will fit into your blender or food processor, then return the soup to the pot. Mix in the cream, and reheat the soup until steaming hot. Do not let it boil or even simmer, or the cream will likely curdle. Serve at once.

Wednesday, 26 December 2007

Classic Baked Beans with Pork

Yes, I made old-fashioned baked beans for (one of) my Christmas dinner(s).

How many people have actually even had this dish, nowadays? Most people have eaten the version that comes out of a tin. It's not bad, for tinned food, but made-from-scratch baked beans are a revelation. Wow! So simple and so good. Of course I have my own little tweaks, the main one of which is the addition of some GINGER. Yeah, yeah, whotta surprise. I have also replaced the traditional salt pork with bacon. It is easier to find and far less likely to consist of 97% fat. Mind you, for once don't get the leanest bacon you can find - you definitely want some fat in there, to make these smooth, rich and tasty, and get you through a day of drawing water and hewing wood in the Canadian winter. Well, it's true these are not exactly low calorie. They cook for loooong time by themselves though, so they really are ideal for when you have been outside running around all day. Or perhaps you will just need to be a little discreet. *

They are very easy to make, but do take some time, what with the soaking and pre-cooking of the beans, and then their long final bake. Start them 2 evenings before you plan to eat them, or the morning of the day before.

4 to 8 servings
2 days - 20 minutes prep time

Classic Baked Beans with Pork2 cups (450 grams; 1 pound) dried white pea (navy) beans
1 large onion
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup Sucanat or dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons hot dry mustard powder
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 cup light molasses
1/4 cup tomato ketchup
1/2 pound smoked bacon

In the evening, put the beans in a large pot with plenty of water to cover, and bring them to a boil. Turn the water off, and let them soak, covered, overnight.

In the morning drain off the soaking water. Return them to the pot and cover with water again. Bring them to a boil, then simmer them until they are just tender. Stir occasionally.

You could also soak the beans in the morning, and cook them in the evening. At any rate, the next morning, drain the beans, reserving the cooking water. Preheat the oven to 200°F.

Put the beans in a fairly deep casserole dish. Peel and chop the onion, and mix it with the beans.

Mix the salt, Sucanat, mustard, ginger, molasses and ketchup in a small bowl. Heat up the bean cooking liquid, and add one cup of it to the mixture in the bowl, stirring to dissolve. Stir this into the beans. Add more of the bean cooking liquid, until it looks like the top layer of beans is floating in it. Settle the bacon down into the middle of the pot.

Cover the dish and bake at 200°F for 6 to 10 hours. Seriously. I used to put this in the oven before I went to work, and come home to baked beans. Because of the very low oven temperature, they can stay in for a long and fairly flexible amount of time. If you want them faster, you can turn the temperature up to 325°F, and bake them for 3 to 4 hours, but I do think they turn out better with the long, slow cooking.

To serve, take your kitchen shears, and snip the bacon into inch-long pieces. Give the beans a good stir, and away you go. Great with cole-slaw and lots of hot buttered toast, because you haven't had enough fat and calories yet.




* Ha, ha. Good luck with that.

Tuesday, 25 December 2007

Chocolate-Ginger Graham Squares

I adapted this recipe from one I clipped from Canadian House and Home Magazine a few years back. Of course, I realized shortly after that that I should not be eating wheat, so this was the first time I have made them. I used my own graham crackers, which made them wheat-free. I also could not resist increasing considerably both the number and volume of other goodies in there with the crumbs. Why not, they are already pretty decadent! Might as well go all the way.

36 squares
45 minutes - not counting making the graham crackers, but allowing for crushing them. Also not counting the various cooling/chilling periods.

Chocolate Ginger Graham Squares3 cups graham cracker crumbs
1 cup finely chopped nuts (your choice)
1/2 cup unsweetened dessicated coconut
1/2 cup finely minced preserved ginger
1/2 cup finely chopped dried fruit (your choice)

1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1/3 cup sugar
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate
3 to 4 tablespoons butter

Prepare an 8" square pan by lining the bottom of it with parchment paper.

Mix the graham cracker crumbs with the chopped nuts, minced preserved ginger and dried fruits - as ever I am partial to dried cranberries or cherries, but nothing wrong with raisins, apricots, pears, etc. Set aside for the moment. In another bowl, whisk the eggs and the vanilla extract. Set aside.

In a large pot - it's all going in, sooner or later - slowly melt the 1/2 cup of butter. As it melts sift over the cocoa powder and sugar. Stir constantly. When the mixture is smooth and very hot, with the sugar and butter completely melted (but not boiling) remove the pot from the heat.

Beat in the eggs, then stir in the graham crumb mixture thoroughly. It will be quite stiff. Turn the mixture into the prepared pan, and press it down as flatly and evenly as possible. Let it cool.
Melt the chocolate gently with the remaining butter, stirring frequently. When it is melted, pour it over the mixture in the pan. Spread it out smoothly and shake the pan a little from side to side, in order to get a nice flat surface. Let cool, then wrap and chill for 2 hours, or up to 2 days.

To cut, set out for 15 minutes to warm slightly, then cut into squares. I think it is best to keep them in the fridge, bringing them out to warm gently just before being served.

Monday, 24 December 2007

Winter Tomato Soup

Using both canned tomatoes and dried tomatoes gives this soup a rich, intense tomato-ey flavour. An assortment of other vegetables add complexity and smoothness. Add that it's very quick and easy to put together, and you've got yourself a staple winter dish. Classic with a grilled cheese sandwich.

8 servings
45 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

Winter Tomato Soup1 large onion
3 or 4 stalks of celery
OR 2 cups diced celeriac
2 large carrots
2 or 3 cloves of garlic
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 cups (1 litre, 1 quart) chicken stock
1 594 ml (28 ounce) tin diced or crushed tomatoes
50 grams (2 ounces) sundried tomatoes
1 large potato
1 teaspoon rubbed basil
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon sugar

Peel and chop the onion. Wash and chop the celery. Both can be somewhat coarse. Peel and slice the carrots. Peel and slice the garlic.

Heat the oil in a large skillet. Sauté the onion, celery, carrots and garlic until soft and lightly browned. You may need to do this in several batches.

Meanwhile, put the chicken stock, tinned tomatoes, dried tomatoes, the potato which has been washed and diced, the basil, pepper, salt and sugar in a large pot. Bring to a simmer.

Add the sautéed vegetables when they are ready. Simmer the soup for 20 to 25 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.

Purée the soup until very smooth. Adjust the seasonings if necessary. Reheat the soup, and serve.

This keep quite well in the fridge - up to a week, no problems.