Fish Fillets in Potato Crust

When I made Gomel-Style Cutlets a while back I threatened to coat other foods to be pan-fried in grated potato, and now I've finally done it. This is a bit like fish and chips, chips included with the fish. A little cole slaw or other salad should finish the meal nicely.

This is a very simple way to cook fish, but I'd say there are two points to watch carefully for success. The first is to be sure your fish fillets are as dry as you can reasonably get them, or the potato crust won't stick well. The second is that while they are being cooked, do not press them down into the oil. I did that, and it packed the potato together too firmly - I believe it would have been a little more crispy if I had managed to refrain. Still, we all enjoyed these and I will try to improve my technique by making it again.

 

2 servings

30 to 40 minutes prep time

 

675 grams (1.5 pounds) white fish fillets

1/3 cup barley or wheat flour

freshly ground black pepper OR other seasonings to taste

2 large eggs

450 grams (1 pound; 3 medium-large) white potatoes

1/4 teaspoon salt

mild vegetable oil to fry 

If you start with frozen fish, it must be thawed. In any case, unwrap the fish fillets and lay them on a good pad of paper or kitchen towels; if kitchen towels preferably clean, but not your good ones. Let them blot and dry thoroughly while you prepare the other ingredients. 

Put the flour on a plate and mix in any seasonings you wish to use. I kept it simple with just some pepper, but a little paprika and thyme would be a good choice. Whisk the eggs on another plate. Wash, peel, and grate the potatoes. Mix them with the salt and let them sit for a few minutes, then squeeze them well to remove and discard as much liquid from them as possible. Put them on another plate. 

Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Pour in about 1/4" of oil. While it heats, coat each fish fillet in flour on both sides, then in egg on both sides, and then in the potatoes, ensuring an even coating of potato all over. Lay them in the hot oil and cook for about 5 minutes per side, until golden-brown. If they do not all fit in the pan (unlikely unless you are using a fairly large griddle) put them on a platter in the oven, kept warm at 200°F until they are all done. Add a little more oil to the pan as required in cooking them. Serve as quickly as possible.

Last year at this time I made Apple-Peanut Cole-Slaw with Coconut-Curry Dressing.

Tuna Quinoa Casserole

This is a pretty classic comfort-food tuna casserole, but for the fact that the usual pasta has been swapped out for quinoa. I always cook more quinoa than we will eat when I make it the first time; it keeps so well and is so handy to have for so many dishes. You can add this one to that list. 

It's a fairly large casserole; if you don't want leftover leftovers, you could cut in in half quite easily. I sprinkled a few tablespoons of water on the leftovers, covered it in foil, and reheated it in the oven to good success, though.

 

4 to 6 servings

1 hour 30 minutes - 45 minutes prep time

NOT including cooking the quinoa

 

 

Cook the Quinoa:

3/4 cup quinoa

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 cups water 

Into the rice cooker with them; turn it on; cook. Remove as soon as it is done. You could also use 2 to 2 1/2 cups leftover cooked quinoa, without or with vegetables in it; adjust the other vegetables if necessary.

Make the Casserole:

1 stalk of celery

2 medium leeks OR 1 large onion

1 medium carrot

1 or 2 cloves of garlic (optional)

125 grams (1/4 pound) button mushrooms

2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

1/4 cup barley OR other flour

2 teaspoons rubbed savory, thyme OR other herb of choice

2 cups whole milk or light cream

2 cups frozen peas, thawed

2 133-g when drained tins of tuna (chunk)

1 cup grated old Cheddar cheese

1 cup bread crumbs

 

Wash, trim, and chop the celery. Wash and trim the leeks, and chop them, or peel and chop the onion. Peel and grate the carrot. Peel and mince the garlic. Clean, trim, and chop the mushrooms. 

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. 

 

Heat the oil in a medium skillet, or better in a shallow casserole dish that can also be used on the stove-top. Cook the celery, leeks or onions, and carrots over medium-high heat, stirring regularly, until softened and reduces in volume. Add the garlic, flour, and other seasonings and mix in well, cooking for another minute or so until well blended and fragrant. 

Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the milk or cream, the thawed peas, the drained tuna broken into chunks, and the quinoa. Spread it all out smoothly. 

Mix the cheese and bread crumbs, and sprinkle them evenly over the casserole. Bake at 350°F for 45 to 50 minutes until nicely browned. Let it rest for 5 minutes before serving.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Spiced Boiled Fruitcake. 

Leeks Stuffed with Smoked Trout & Wild Rice

I really, really did intend to get away from the cheese at last, but I made the leek rolls, and put them in the pan, and there they were - totally naked, and not in a good way. They needed something to keep them moist. They needed cheese. Okay. Although I think a less cheesy solution of buttered bread crumbs and Parmesan in modest quantities would also work.

Now that I have a technique down for stuffing leeks, I think they are so terrific. About the same level of difficulty to make as lasagne (which is to say, a little picky but not at all difficult) and with that same impressive presentation. And cheese; let's not forget the cheese.

 

This is not just impressive looking, it's impressive tasting, and I'm afraid that with the price of some of the ingredients the grocery bill will also be quite impressive, and not in a good way, again. Still, sometimes one must splash out a little. 

I used Friulano, which I like so much, but mozzarella may be easier to get. At any rate, it should be a moderately mild cheese, to allow the smoked trout to really shine.

 

4 servings

40 minutes advance preparation time

1 hour 30 minutes - (40 minutes prep time) to finish

Prepare the Leeks, Spinach, & Wild Rice:

1/2 cup raw wild rice

1 1/2 cups water

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 large (600 grams; 1.5 pounds) leeks

4 cups loosely-packed raw spinach

OR 150 grams (5 ounces) cooked spinach

 

Put the wild rice, water, and salt into a rice-cooker and cook. Once it is done, remove it from the pot promptly. 

 

Put a pot of water on to boil. Trim and wash the leeks. When you have the solid shank part of each one trimmed, cut it from top to bottom half-way through. This will allow you to pull out the centre of the leek, leaving 5 or 6 layers. Boil the outer layers for 4 or 5 minutes, then lift them from the boiling water, rinse them in cold water, and drain them well. (Set the inner leaves aside but keep them.) 

Wash and pick over the spinach while the leeks blanch. Blanch the spinach for just a minute or so, then rinse in cold water and drain well. Squeeze out as much water from them as you easily can, then chop them finely. 

All of these things can be done up to a day ahead, and the prepared ingredients kept refrigerated until needed.

Make the Filling & Bake:

2 medium shallots

1 or 2 cloves of garlic

125 grams (1/4 pound) button mushrooms

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon rubbed basil

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

a little grating of nutmeg

125 grams (1/4 pound; 1/2 fillet) smoked trout  

1 medium egg

250 grams (1/2 pound) smoked trout

3/4 cup 5% or 10% cream

100 grams grated mozzarella OR Friulano cheese

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

Peel and mince the shallots and garlic. Clean, trim, and slice the mushrooms - slice them in half again if the mushrooms are large. Finely chop the leftover inner leaves of the leeks.

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil or butter a 1 1/2 quart/litre shallow baking pan. 

 

Heat the butter in a large skillet, and cook the shallots over medium heat, stirring regularly, until softened. Add the leeks and mushrooms and continue cooking, stirring regularly, until they too are softened and reduced in volume. Add the seasonings, and the garlic and cook for a minute or two more. 

 

Turn the cooked vegetables into a mixing bowl and add the wild rice and finely chopped spinach. Break in the egg. Break the trout into flakes, discarding the skin, and add it to the mixing bowl. Add 1/4 cup of the cream. Stir gently to combine. 

Take 2 or 3 leaves of the blanched outer leaves of the leeks, spreading them out to form a rectangle. Put in enough filling in a line across the middle, and fold the leek leaves closed around them. Place the resulting filled leek leaves into the prepared pan. Continue filling the leek leaves until they are all done. Pour the remaining cream evenly over them. 

Grate the cheeses, and sprinkle them evenly over the pan of leeks. Bake for 50 minutes to an hour, until the cheese is bubbly and lightly browned. Let rest 5 minutes before serving.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Beets au gratin. 

Italian Tuna-Stuffed Peppers

This Italian dish is usually served at room temperature, as an antipasto, but it is also delicious hot as a main course. You could throw some other things into it, if you liked. Anchovies are a common addition, believe it or not. Good quality Italian tuna must not be quite as salty as what I buy at Costco, although to be fair, once the other ingredients were in it was not as salty as I feared it would be, and it could have absorbed an anchovy or two, especially if it was served as an appetizer. Capers or chopped olives could be used instead - just a few of them. 

I made a double recipe, and with three of us eating it, there was enough left over for another generous serving. The exact quantity of peppers is hard to pin down - it will depend very much on their size and configuration. Use tiny ones for an appetizer and larger ones for a main dish. If you use large peppers such as Red Shepherd, use smaller specimens of them  - they can get large enough that just one could swallow up an entire batch of the filling. 

You could omit the cheese if you don't want it. If you do use it, it should be a somewhat mild and lower salt cheese - aged cheeses tend to have a lot, and I think would be a bit too much with the tuna. I used Friulano, which I really like - it has all the delightful boingy qualities of mozzarella, with a more interesting flavour. I also threw in a few leftover potatoes to fill up the gaps around the peppers; if you want to add potatoes to your pan they should be at least par-cooked to be done in the same amount of time as the peppers.

 

2 to 3 servings

1 hour 15 minutes - 45 minutes prep time

 

 

Prepare the Peppers:

6 to 8 small apple peppers (such as Doe Hill)

OR 3 or 4 medium sized peppers (such as Bell or Cubanelle)

OR 2 larger peppers (such as Red Shepherd) 

Wash the peppers. Cut a slit lengthwise in each pepper, then down and around the stem. Remove the stem and any seeds, etc, from the core of the pepper, leaving a hollow shell. Be careful not to break them. 

Broil them under the broiler until slightly softened and blackened in spots. Turn to broil them evenly. Set them aside to cool while you make the filling, and turn the oven to 375°F.

Make the Filling:

1 tin (133+ g drained) chunk or solid tuna

1 slice stale bread

1 medium egg

1 small tomato (about 3 to 4 tablespoons chopped)

2 to 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley 

the finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon

freshly ground black pepper to taste

75 grams (3 ounces) Friulano, mozzarella, ricotta or similar mild cheese

1 tablespoon olive oil

 

Drain the tuna and put it in a small mixing bowl. Cut or tear the bread into coarse crumbs, and add them to the tuna. Break in the egg. Peel (if you like) and dice the tomato, and add it to the bowl. Wash, dry and mince the parsley, and add it. Season with pepper, and mix well. If the mixture does not seem moist, you may need to add a little water - just a spoonful. It should be moist, but not wet, and hold its shape. 

 

Grate or finely dice the cheese, and mix 2/3 of it into the stuffing. Divide the stuffing amongst the peppers, and lay them in a shallow baking pan that will hold them fairly snugly, and which has been greased with the olive oil. Divide the remaining cheese over the peppers, and cover the pan, with foil if it hasn't got a lid. Bake for 30 minutes at 375°F for 30 minutes, then remove the lid (or foil) and bake for a further 15 minutes. These can be served hot or at room temperature, as a main dish or, if you have stuffed a number of smaller peppers, as an antipasto or appetizer.  

Last year at this time I made Cauliflower and Pepper Sauté.

Stewed Fish with Zucchini

I've made this three times in the last couple of weeks. The first time I had no intention of posting it - it was so plain and basic. But I enjoyed it a lot, and wanted to make it again, so I decided to make it and post it. Unfortunately, that effort turned out to be on one of the days we had a tornado warning, and while we did not have a tornado, it was so dark that I could not get a good picture. 

So here it is, the lucky third time. It's getting late enough that the zucchini are coming to an end, but hopefully there are still a few around. You can use whatever kind of white fish you like, really. I've been serving it over some drained whole grain ramen noodles and really enjoying the combination, but rice or quinoa would also be an excellent choice. I have been seasoning it very lightly - all the veggies are fresh from the garden and so good just as they are, and I don't want to overwhelm the fish. You could certainly season it up a bit, though, if you like. Italian seasonings? Curry powder? Something else?

 

2 servings

30 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

 

 

2 medium (225 grams; 1/2 pound) tomatoes 

2 medium (400 grams; scant pound) zucchini

1 small onion

1/2 red or orange pepper

2 cloves of garlic

2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

1 bay leaf

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 fillets of whitefish OR 4 perch fillets (about 450 grams; 1 pound)

 

Put a small pot of water on to boil which will just cover the tomatoes. When it boils, add them and blanch for 1 minute. Transfer them to the sink and run cold water on them until cool. Peel them, chop them, and set them aside. 

 

Meanwhile, wash, trim, and dice the zucchini fairly finely. Peel and chop the onion. Wash, trim, and chop the pepper. Peel and mince the garlic. 

 

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the zucchini, onion, and pepper, with the bay leaf, and cook until softened, reduced in volume, and lightly browned; between 5 and 10 minutes. Stir regularly. Season with salt and pepper.

 

Add the garlic and cook it in for a minute or two, then add the tomatoes. Mix in well. If the mixture seems too dry, add a few spoonfuls of water or tomato juice. 

 

Lay the fish fillets over the top of the vegetables and cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid. Reduce the heat if it seems to be bubbling a bit too madly. Cook for 7 to 9 minutes, until the fish is done. Serve with rice, noodles, or quinoa. 

Last year at this time I made Cream of Cauliflower Soup.

Parchment Cooked (Mostly) Duck, Chicken, or Fish

You must have a panini (sandwich) press for this, or similar electric griddle which heats from both top and bottom. Possibly even a waffle maker will work, but I have not tried it. You must also have parchment paper. 

I should probably have posted about this earlier this summer, since one of the best things about this technique is that it keeps the heat down in the kitchen. The other best thing about it, though, is that it cooks duck, chicken, or fish pieces in 2/3 the time of pan or broiler cooking, with very little mess, and so I do cook this way all year. The result produced is somewhere between poaching and broiling; once you have the times down you can have perfectly cooked, tender and juicy poultry or fish. I haven't tried pork chops, because things really don't brown, although I guess like the duck they could be browned in a pan afterwards. But once you are using another pan, you lose a lot of the point of this technique.

If you are cooking duck breast it must still be finished in a pan in order to get that crispy skin which is what makes duck breast so special. Duck is the only poultry that has skin that will crisp even after it is otherwise cooked, so don't expect to be able to do that with chicken. Chicken cooked by this technique should be skinless. Fish could have skin, but it won't be nice - peel it off and discard it once cooked, or better, use skinless fish fillets to start with as well. 

 

It's duck in the photo; cooked the way we like it which is less rare than usually recommended. The panini press cooks at a reliable and relatively low temperature, but both sides at once, which is why it cooks things quickly (though not in half the time) yet keeps them tender and moist. 

It will depend on the size of your appliance, but for mine and for most of them, 2 servings will be the most you can cook at once. The times listed below assume 2 pieces; you may wish to check earlier for doneness if you are only cooking one piece.

 

per portion

5 to 10 minutes prep time

8 to 16 minutes cook time

5 minutes rest time

 

 

1 or 2 boneless portions of duck breast, chicken, or fish fillets

seasonings to taste

parchment paper

 

Lay out a piece of parchment paper of sufficient size to wrap around your portions of duck, chicken, or fish on the counter. Sprinkle the seasonings you wish to use lightly over it. Lay the portions on the seasoned paper so that they will fit properly in the appliance as they cook, but with a small amount of space between them if more than one piece. You can usually do 2 chicken or duck breasts, 4 chicken thighs, or up to a pound of fish pieces. Season the tops as well.  

 

Plug in the panini press or other griddle to preheat for a minute or so. 

Fold the top and bottom of the parchment paper up to meet each other, and fold them to interlock and lie flat over the pieces of meat. Neatly fold up the edges to make a flat, fairly rectangular package. Place it in the centre of the press, and close it firmly. 

Cook for:

 - 4 to 6 minutes for fish, depending on type and thickness

 - 6 minutes for chicken

 - 6 to 8 minutes for duck breast, depending on thickness and desired level of doneness

THEN rotate the package (not turning it over), press back down firmly, and cook for a further:

 

 - 4 to 6 minutes for fish

 - 5 to 6 minutes for chicken

 - 6 to 8 minutes for duck breast

 

Remove the package at once to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes before serving, for fish or chicken. 

 

For duck breast, it should be unwrapped and placed in a hot, lightly oiled pan skin-side down until the skin is crispy, about 5 minutes. Transfer, skin side up, to a serving plate, cover loosely, and now let it rest 5 minutes before serving. Tongs are the best tool for all of this. 

 

If the cooked meat is to be used cold in salads, transfer it to the fridge as soon as it is cool, well wrapped or in a container.

 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Cauliflower Finnish Style. 

Salmon, Snow Pea & Lentil Salad

Some advance cooking required here - although either the lentils or salmon could easily be leftovers - but this is otherwise a very simple salad. It's quite substantial for its volume - I was afraid it wouldn't be quite enough for the 3 of us, but in fact there was a little leftover, even with Mr. Ferdzy still eating like a fence-building bear. 

I've taken to cooking fish or boneless chicken for salads (or sometimes just to eat at once) in my panini press. It's quick - about 2/3 the time of broiling it - it's clean - the parchment paper is just discarded, and sometimes the panini press doesn't even need to be wiped - and it produces good quality results somewhere between poaching and grilling. The parchment paper keeps all the juices in and you get very moist results. (If you use this technique and plan to eat the fish or chicken hot, leave it wrapped and resting for 5 minutes before you open and serve it.)

I went with a Mediterranean flavour profile here, but I think it would be just as good to replace the seasonings I used with some Furikake. I'd omit the dill, in that case.

 

3 to 4 servings

1 hour to cook lentils

15 minutes to cook salmon 

20 minutes to finish the salad

 

Do the Advance Cooking:

1 cup brown or green lentils

2 1/4 cups water

1/4 teaspoon salt

400 grams skinned and boned salmon pieces

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

 

Rinse and pick over the lentils, and put them in a rice cooker with the water and salt. Turn on and let cook. Once they are done, remove the insert from the cooker and let the lentils cool completely. Cover. This can be done up to a day ahead, and the cooled lentils kept in the fridge. 

 

Season the salmon pieces with salt and pepper, and wrap them in parchment paper, so that there is a good sealed seam on top and then fold up the edges so the salmon won't leak as it cooks. Cook it in an electric grill (panini press) for 3 minutes, then rotate the package of salmon and cook for a further 3 to 4 minutes. Lift it out to a plate to cool, leaving it wrapped. Again, this can be done up to 24 hours ahead and kept in the fridge until needed.  You could also start with leftover cooked salmon; about 2 cups when chopped.

Make the Dressing:

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper

1/2 teaspoon rubbed savory

the zest of 1/2 large lemon

3 tablespoons olive oil

the juice of 1 large lemon

 

Put the salt, Aleppo pepper, savory, and lemon zest into a small bowl or jam jar. Add the olive oil and stir until the salt is dissolved. Whisk or stir in the lemon juice. 

 

Make the Salad:

2 cups snow peas

2 to 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh chives

2 to 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh parsley

2 to 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh cilantro

2 to 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh dill

1 small head Bibb (Boston) lettuce

 

Wash the snow peas, and top and tail them. Put a pot of water on to boil, and boil them for 2 minutes. Rinse immediately in cold water until they cooled, then drain very well. 

 

Wash, trim, dry, and mince all the herbs. Put them in a mixing bowl with the snow peas. Add the lentils and the salmon, broken into large flakes or chunks. Toss with the salad dressing. 

Serve the salad over the washed and dried lettuce leaves, or if you prefer chop them and toss them with the salad. 

 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Chicken & Asparagus Salad with Hazelnuts & Miso-Ginger Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Baked Trout with Creamy Leek & Dill Sauce

We actually got into a local specialty grocery recently, and I was able to get some lovely trout from Kolapore. This was a very quick and simple way to serve it, but after all good trout (and theirs is excellent) needs no distractions. The sauce is delicious and counts as a vegetable dish, so we just added some frozen peas for good measure and with a little rice had ourselves an amazing meal.  

Leeks, carrots, and frozen peas are all just about gone. Well, everything is just about gone. Fortunately new things are coming along every day!

 

4 servings

45 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

2 medium leeks

1 medium carrot

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons barley OR other flour

freshly ground black pepper to taste

2/3 cup thick yogurt

2/3 cup light cream (10%)

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/4 cup finely minced fresh dill

the zest of 1/2 lemon

the juice of 1/2 lemon

2 trout fillets, 325 to 425 grams (12 to 16 ounces) each

Wash and trim the leeks, and chop them finely. Peel and grate the carrot. 

Melt the butter in an oven-proof baking dish that can also be used on the stove-top over medium heat. Cook the leeks and carrot for about 10 minutes, stirring regularly, until softened and reduced in volume but not browned. Season with salt and pepper, and mix in the flour. Let cook for another 5 minutes or so, stirring regularly. 

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°F. 

Mix the yogurt and cream together in a mixing bowl, with the mustard, dill, lemon zest and lemon juice. Stir it all into the cooked vegetables. (Remove them from the heat first.) Lay the trout fillets on top of the sauce, pressing them down slightly to make the fish and sauce level with each other. 

Bake for 20 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes before serving. 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Carrots with Sorrel & Spinach. 

Lemon-Mayonnaise Broiled Trout

When I cook fish I almost always broil it. Most fish is thin enough to be broiled - trout fillets certainly are - and done properly it will leave your fish moist and flaky. It's also done in 10 minutes or less, which I have to admit is almost always the actual deciding factor in my decision to cook this way.

This easy sauce is tasty enough to enhance lovely fresh trout and delicate enough to do it without trying to steal the limelight, and it doesn't add a lot of time to proceedings. You'll also have about half a lemon left over once it's done, so cut it in wedges and pass it with the trout.

2 to 4 servings
20 minutes prep time

Make the Sauce:
1 clove of garlic
1/4 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
the finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon
1/2 to 1 teaspoon rubbed thyme OR savory
1 tablespoon potato starch
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 cup mayonnaise

Peel and mince/mash the garlic with the salt and pepper. Put it in a small bowl with the lemon zest, herb, and potato starch. Mix, then mix in the lemon juice and then the mayonnaise. 

Cook the Fish:
2 250 gram (1/2 pound) trout fillets
about 3 tablespoons mild vegetable oil
    OR melted butter

Preheat the broiler.

Use a standard double-layered broiler pan. Put about 1/4" of water in the lower pan. Brush the upper perforated piece with oil or melted butter, using a pastry brush. Lay the trout fillets, skin side down, on the pan so as to get them best centred under the grill. Pat them dry with paper towel then brush them with a little oil or melted butter.

Spread the sauce evenly over them. Put the pan directly under the broiler and broil for 6 to 8 minutes, until done. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Fish & Summer Vegetable Chowder

Well, this was excellent. I thought it would last for 2 meals but we ate it all at once. It's pretty light, being mostly fish and vegetables so that was quite possible. With some good crusty bread and butter on the side, it might stretch to 3 or 4 servings, and if it was served as a first course to a larger meal it should be enough for 6 people.

If you had some corn and corn cooking water left from another meal, that would speed up the making of this soup. This is not a difficult soup to make, but getting the timing for cooking the corn and fish lined up with the cooking of the other vegetables in the butter requires a little attention. The main point, I think, is to not overcook the fish so it should not go into the pot until the vegetables are well under way.

If you do have leftovers, refrigerate them promptly and eat them the next day. I do not believe this soup will keep well for long.

2 to 6 servings
45 minutes prep time

Mix the Seasonings:
1/2 teaspoon fennel seed, ground
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons wheat OR barley flour
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
freshly ground black pepper to taste

Grind the fennel seed with the salt, then mix all the spices and flour in a small bowl. Set aside

Make the Soup:

1 medium onion

1 medium carrot

1 medium zucchini

1 small stalk of celery

300 grams (10 ounces) white fish fillet

4 cups water

2 medium-small cobs of corn

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup rich milk OR light cream

a sprig of basil OR a few sprigs of parsley

Trim, peel, and dice the onion, carrot, and zucchini. Wash and trim the celery, and dice.
Put the water in a heavy-bottomed soup pot and bring it to a boil. Meanwhile, husk the corn. Boil the corn for 2 to 3 minutes, then transfer it to a bowl or the sink, and run cold water over it until it is cool enough to handle. KEEP the pot of water in which the corn was boiled; it is the base for your soup. Leave it on the back of the stove until ready to resume.

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and cook gently, stirring regularly.

Cut the corn from the cobs while this cooks, and return the scraped cobs to the pot of water. Simmer them while the vegetables in the skillet continue to cook. Add the fillet of fish to the corn cob pot, being sure that it is without any skin or bones, and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes. It should break up into pieces as you cook the soup and stir.

When the vegetables in the skillet have cooked for 5 minutes, add the zucchini and mix in well; let it cook for several minutes, stirring occasionally, then mix in the corn. Continue cooking and stirring regularly for another 5 minutes or so.

Sprinkle the little bowl of seasonings over the vegetables after a few minutes and mix it in well. Once it is well absorbed and no dry white specks can be seen, slowly mix in the milk or cream. Cook gently until thickened, continuing to stir.

Remove the corn cobs from the pot of soup, and discard them. Break the cooked fish into large flakes with a spoon. Mix the skillet of vegetables and cream into the soup. Let the soup sit and steam on the edge of simmering for another 5 minutes or so, but do not let it boil. Sprinkle with the basil or parsley and serve.




Last year at this time I made Green Bean & Cauliflower Salad in Gremolata-Tahini Dressing.

Zucchini Tuna Melt

Tuna Melts, I must say, are not my favourite thing. When I was young and stupid I ordered one at the cafeteria in Simpson's Department Store, in downtown Toronto. So yes; a long time ago. To my surprise it had been made in advance and was served cold. Even worse, it tasted "off" somehow. Since I had been raised to have a horror of making any kind of a fuss in public, I did not complain but quietly ate it in spite of my misgivings. I then had to make a fuss in public anyway, as my attendance was required at the local emergency room at some point in the middle of the following night.

Since then, I don't think I've had more Tuna Melts than could be counted on the fingers of one hand. This might change my mind though, and also I think it's finally been long enough for me to reconsider my stance. Being hot through and actually melty definitely helps. That's where letting the oven pre-heat a bit, and not putting the dish directly under the broiler comes in. It probably took about 3 times as long for the cheese to melt and brown than if it had been closer to the flame, but everything got well heated this way, and "3 times as long" is still about 10 minutes, so this is a quick enough dish to make.

I'm giving quantities and ingredient suggestions, but basically you are going to make your usual tuna salad with your favourite add-ins while you steam the zucchini, then stuff them with it, top with grated cheese, and broil. Easy-cheesy. 

2 servings
30 minutes - 10 minutes prep time

1 large OR 2 medium OR 3 small zucchini
1 tin chunk OR solid white tuna
2 tablespoons to 1/4 cup relish, grated carrot & celery, etc
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 cup grated melty cheese

Wash the zucchini, and trim the stem end neatly. Cut them in half lengthwise, and steam for 8 to 10 minutes, until easily pierced with a fork.

Meanwhile, drain the tuna very well and mix it with whatever you usually add to tuna when making tuna salad for sandwiches. I generally add either a little relish, or finely grated carrot and diced celery, and mayonnaise.

When the zucchini is tender, let it cool just enough to handle. Use a grapefruit spoon to hollow out each half. Put the hollowed out pieces of zucchini into a baking pan that will hold them snugly in a single layer. Squeeze as much liquid from the scraped out zucchini trimming as possible. Chop it finely and mix it into your tuna salad.

Preheat the broiler; have the rack down one setting from immediately under the broiler. 

Distribute the tuna evenly amongst the hollowed out zucchini boats. Top them with a good layer of grated cheese. When the oven is hot, place them on the top rack and broil until the cheese is browned and melted, and the whole dish is quite hot; about 10 minutes. Serve at once.




Last year at this time I made Raspberry-Mint-Tea Slushies.

Smoked Trout, Asparagus, & Chick Pea Salad

Our asparagus is actually slowing down a little bit; we spent a week pulling out over a pound of it every day, but it seems to have dropped below that. Cooler temperatures again, coupled with very little rain - not enough, at any rate, to really soak the warm, dried out soil. Still, we are getting some.

The heat seems to have been enough to get the lettuce to size up without making it bitter so the month of Salad, I mean June, has begun. This one was very tasty and if you used a tin of chick peas as quick and easy as any.

I don't often use tomatoes with asparagus, because I feel like they are the vegetables of different seasons and as such have nothing much to say to each other, but I had a few I ordered for putting in sandwiches without thinking that I practically never eat sandwiches anymore, so I tossed one in. I have to say I do think it added good things to the salad, so there. 

2 to 6 servings
45 minutes prep time, NOT including cooking the chick peas

Cook the Chick Peas & Asparagus:
1 cup dry chick peas
1 teaspoon salt
450 grams (1 pound) asparagus

Rinse and pick over the chick peas. Put them in a pot with water to cover well, and bring to a boil. Let boil for a minute, then cover the pot and turn it off. Let the peas soak for several hours.

To cook them, drain them and return them to the pot or Instant-Pot. Add the salt and cover well with water. Simmer them steadily until tender; 1 to 2 hours, stirring regularly in the pot, or cook on high (regular) pressure in the Instant Pot for 12 to 14 minutes. Let the pot de-pressurize for about 1/2 hour before opening. In any case, cool the cooked chick peas completely. You could also avoid all this by using a 540-ml (19 ounce) can of chick peas.

Wash and trim the asparagus. Cut it into small (chick pea sized) pieces, except for the tips which should be left whole. Bring a pot of water to a boil and boil them for 3 to 4 minutes before rinsing them in cold water until completely cool, then draining well. 

Make the Dressing:
1/3 cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh dill weed
salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste
the juice of 1/2 large lemon

Mix the mayonnaise, mustard, dill, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl. Mix the lemon juice in a bit at a time in order to keep the dressing smooth and lump-free. Add the chick peas and asparagus, and then the other salad ingredients listed below as you prepare them. 

Assemble the Salad:
2 to 3 cups finely torn or chopped fresh lettuce and/or spinach
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
1 large or 2 medium greenhouse tomatoes
225 grams (1/2 pound) smoked trout

Wash, trim, and chop the lettuce or spinach and drain it very well. Wash, trim, and mince the parsley. Wash, core, and chop the tomato(es).  Remove and discard the skin and any bones from the trout, and flake it into small bite-sized pieces. Add it to the salad and toss well.




Last year at this time I made Sorrel Pakoras.

Broiled Trout with Furikake

We had a family gathering over the weekend and it was time for something special, but quick and easy. I made the furikake - which is a popular Japanese seasoning blend - ahead of time, and then the fish just had to broiled and served.

Furikake was originally developed as a nutritional supplement - it contained finely ground fish bones which added calcium - but it also gave a burst of salty, nutty excitement to rice, fish, vegetables, etc. My take is not particularly authentic, but we really enjoyed it sprinkled on some trout fillets. This should make enough to season up to 8 trout fillets, but don't worry if you are not cooking that many. Save it and use it on lots of other dishes.

I put in some fish sauce to mimic the original base, but if you would prefer to keep it vegetarian you could omit it.

up to 8 servings
15 minutes to make the furikake
15 minutes to cook the fish

Make the Furikake:
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds
2 tablespoons hemp hearts
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 sheets of nori

Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the sesame, pumpkin, and hemp seeds. Toast them gently, stirring frequently. Sprinkle with the soy and fish sauces and stir in until absorbed and dried onto the seeds. As soon as they are dry and lightly toasted turn them into a dish to cool.

Toast the sheets of nori over the stove burner, about 3" or 4" above the flame. They will shrivel slightly and curl up. They will also become quite crisp. Crumble them into the bowl of toasted seeds. Put the mixture into a blender or food processor and process briefly until it is a fine, even, crumbly mixture the texture of coarsely ground pepper.

Cook the Trout:
1 filet of trout per serving, 200 to 250 grams (1/2 pound) each

Put the trout fillets on a lightly oiled broiler pan. Cook under the broiler for about 5 to 8 minutes, until nearly cooked. Sprinkle each fillet evenly with about 1 tablespoon of the furikake mixture. Return to under the broiler and cook for another 2 or 3 minutes until the trout is cooked. Serve at once.




Last year at this time I made Meatball Pilaf with Green Beans & Peppers. 

Russian Fish & Spring Greens Pie

After several years of abuse, my French sorrel appears to be recovering nicely. This is a plant - herb? vegetable? - that I get to like more and more. Of course, now I want to move it again.

If you are not growing it yourself, sorrel will be hard to find. You can use all spinach, and throw in a tablespoon of lemon juice to replace the tart zing of the missing sorrel, but if you have any garden space at all, I recommend planting a little patch.

Use any standard pastry for this. I would have made my favourite biscuity crust, but I was out of buttermilk so it was more like this one. If it calls for around 2 cups of flour it will be quite sufficient. 

6 servings
2 hours - 1 hour prep time

1 recipe pie pastry
2 large eggs
2 cups packed raw spinach
2 cups packed raw sorrel
1/4 cup minced parsley
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh dill
2 tablespoons flour
salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 cup 10% cream
75 grams (2 to 3 ounces) strong Cheddar cheese
200 to 225 grams (about 8 ounces) tinned salmon
     OR smoked trout or salmon

Make the pastry. While you make it is a good time to cook the eggs as well - put them in a pot with water to cover them well, and bring them to a boil. Boil them steadily for 1 minute, then cover  them and remove them from the heat. Let them sit for 10 minutes before letting them cool.

Wash, trim, and pick over the spinach and sorrel. Shred them very finely. Put them in a strainer and pour boiling water over them to just wilt them. Squeeze them well to remove as much moisture as you can, then shred them again. Put them in a mixing bowl.

Wash, dry, and mince the parsley and dill. Add them to the spinach and sorrel.

Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and season with salt - lightly, keeping in mind the saltiness of the fish and cheese - and pepper, more enthusiastically. Mix in the cream.

Pick over the fish, removing and discarding any skin and bones. Break it into bite-sized chunks. Add it to the vegetables. Grate the cheese and mix about three-quarters of it into the vegetables. Peel the eggs, and chop them. Mix them in as well.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. 

Roll the pastry out into as neat a circle as you can manage on a sheet of (possibly floured) parchment paper, so that it will fill your pie plate with about an inch excess all around. Flip it into the pie plate, centred, and remove the parchment paper from it. Press it to conform to the shape of the dish. Scrape in the filling and spread it out evenly, pressing it down gently. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top. Fold in the excess pie crust over the pie, pleating it neatly.

Bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until the pastry is nicely browned. This pie is best served at room temperature, so let it cool completely before serving. If it is made much in advance, it should be covered and refrigerated; bring it out 30 minutes before serving to take the chill off of it.




Last year at this time I made Spinach & Apple Salad with Balsamic Dressing.

Mushroom & Wild Leek Soup

We have wild leeks growing in our woods, that we transplanted there 2012. They are growing quite nicely, and returning every year, but it has to be conceded that at the rate they are spreading, they should be ready to harvest sometime around 2153. The acres of wild leeks (also known as ramps) in local woodlots are plainly not the result of hundreds of years of spreading so much as thousands of years. A somewhat amazing thought, and only very slightly tongue-in-cheek.

So I didn't use wild leeks for this, although that would be ideal if you could get them. What I did have, and recommend as my second choice, is shallot greens. I have some shallots that really don't die down in the fall and are green and leafy by now. They have some of the rich flavour of wild leeks too. But if you can't get shallot greens - and unless you grow them yourself, you probably can't - you will have to use green onions.

I used shiitakes, because I had rather a lot of them having found some on sale. I think a mix of shiitakes, oyster, and button mushrooms would be ideal, but nothing wrong with shiitakes! With smoked trout and cream, this was really delicious. It ought to be, I guess, because it is a bit on the pricey side, even with picking my own shallot greens. Definitely something for a special occasion.

4 servings
40 minutes prep time

Make the Broth:
225 grams (1/2 pound) smoked trout fillet
2 or 3 bay leaves
6 to 8 black peppercorns
1/8 teaspoon salt
6 cups of filtered water

Peel the skin from the trout and put it in a medium-sized pot with the remaining ingredients. Chop the trout meat and put it in a cool spot, covered - it's not going in until later. Bring the pot to a boil then reduce to a simmer and simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes.

Make the Soup:
6 to 8 wild leeks (ramps) OR green shallot or onions
250 grams (1/2 pound) mixed mushrooms
1/4 cup unsalted butter
6 tablespoons barley flour
1 teaspoon rubbed savory OR thyme
1/3 cup 10% cream

Meanwhile, wash and trim the wild leeks or green onions. Chop them finely, keeping the green and white parts in separate piles. Clean and trim the mushrooms (if using shiitakes, discard the stems - you could throw them into the pot of broth if you like) and chop them fairly finely.

Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and white parts of the onions/wild leeks, and cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes. Add the remaining chopped green tops and cook for another 5 minutes or so. As they cook, sprinkle the barley flour over them and mix in well. Let it cook for a few minutes.

When the broth is ready, strain it into the pot with the cooked mushrooms etc, and discard the solids. Mix it in well. Let the soup simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. When it is well thickened, mix in the chopped trout and the cream. Bring it up to steaming hot again - about 5 minutes - but don't let it simmer. Check the seasoning and add a little more salt and pepper if needed. Serve at once.

Pasta with Smoked Trout, Fennel, Leeks, & Dried Tomatoes

Smoked trout is rather expensive but a little bit goes a reasonably long way. Here it is mixed with some glamorous vegetables for quite a fancy pasta dish, but like most pasta dishes it is quick and easy enough for a week-night dinner. And yes, it's pasta again. We do tend to live on the stuff.

This is the time of year when I tend to strew everything with parsley because it is finally looking thick and lush; also there's no denying that fennel and leeks need a shot of green to liven them up. A nice green salad on the side will have the same effect and finish off your meal nicely.

2 to 4 servings
30 minutes prep time

Make the Sauce:
1 medium bulb of fennel
1 large leek
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, ground
1/4 teaspoon sweet or hot paprika, possibly smoked
1 cup fish or chicken stock

Wash the fennel and trim off the stems and base. Chop the bulb into bite-sized pieces. Wash and trim the leek, slice it lengthwise, and cut it in pieces.

Heat the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the fennel and leeks, and stir to coat in the butter. Cook gently until softened but not browned, about 10 minutes. Stir regularly. Put the water on to boil for the past as as soon as the vegetables go into the pan.

Add the seasonings to the vegetables and mix in. 

When the vegetables have softened and cooked down for about 10 minutes, add the fish or chicken stock and continue simmering.

Cook the Pasta & Finish:
150 to 225 grams stubby pasta
1/2 cup dried tomato bits
1/2 (200 grams; 1/2 pound) of a smoked trout
1/2 cup cream
1 teaspoon arrowroot or cornstarch
sprig of parsley, and/or fennel

Bring a pot of water to a boil and salt generously. Cook the pasta until it is 3 minutes short of the recommended time on the package. Add the tomato bits when there is still 5 minutes left to go. Drain well.

Add the pasta to the pan of vegetables, and mix in well. Let cook for a minute or so, then add the smoked trout, crumbled into bite-sized pieces. Let that heat through for another minute.

Mix the starch into the cream and mix it into the pan. Stir gently, and cook until the sauce has thickened - just another minute or so.

If you have a little parsley, mince a sprig finely with a sprig of greenery from the fennel. Otherwise, just a sprig from the fennel. Sprinkle over the finished pasta to garnish.





Last year at this time I made Mallorcan Eggplant Pastel.

Summer Fish Cakes

These are a little different from the classic fish and potato fish cakes, being made with corn and zucchini instead of the usual potatoes. Nothing wrong with that! Serve them with the same chow-chow, tartar sauce, or wedge of lemon that you might serve with more typical fish cakes. Accompany them with some lovely sliced tomatoes and a roll, and you have a terrific summer meal.

8 fish cakes
4 servings
45 minutes prep time

300 grams (10 ounces) boneless whitefish
2 cobs of corn
1 medium zucchini
2 green onions
2 cloves of garlic
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons potato starch
mild vegetable oil to fry - about 1/4 cup

Skin the whitefish and discard the skin. Chop the flesh into small pieces, discarding any bones should you find them.  Put it in a mixing bowl.

Husk the corn and cut it from the cobs. Add it to the fish. Wash, trim and grate the zucchini; add it in. Wash, trim, and chop the green onions finely. Peel and mince the garlic, and add both to the bowl. Peel and grate the ginger; add to the bowl.

Break in the egg; season with salt and pepper. Mix well. Add the potato starch and mix well again.

Heat enough oil to coat the bottom of your skillet generously over medium-high heat. Spoon in 1/8 of the batter at a time to form 4 patties (assuming that is what your skillet will hold) and cook until set and lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Turn over the cakes and cook on the other side. Keep the finished cakes warm in a 200°F oven while you cook the remainder. Add oil to the pan as required to keep them cooking and browning well.




Last year at this time I made Keema Mattar (Ground Meat Curry with Peas).

Smoked Trout & Wild Rice Salad with Peas

I  always want to do more with wild rice but it is not the easiest thing to find and when you do find it, the price is also a consideration. I was really pleased with how this turned out though; it is the essence of early summer grounded by the earthy wild rice and smoked fish. This is a dish worthy of a special occasion. Of course, I am firmly of the opinion that lunch on the back deck is a special occasion.

2 to 4 servings
30 minutes prep time, including cooking the peas
but not including cooking the wild rice

Cook the Wild Rice & Peas:
1 cup wild rice
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 cups water
1 1/2 cups shelled peas (2 quarts in the pods)
1 1/2 cups snap or snow peas (or combination)

Put the wild rice, salt, and water into a rice cooker; turn on and cook. Or, you can do it on a pot on the stove but it will need much more attention. Bring it to a boil, then reduce heat to very low and cook, covered, until the rice is tender and the water s absorbed; about 45 minutes. Let cool.

Shell the peas and break off the stem ends of the peas, pulling off any strings along the top and bottom of the peas at the same time. Put a pot of water on to boil, and add the prepared peas and snap/snow peas to it once it boils. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes, then drain them at once and plunge into cold water to stop them from cooking any further. When cool, drain well.

Make the Dressing:
the juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon prepared horseradish

Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl or jam jar, and whisk or shake together.

Finish the Salad:
200 grams (1/2 pound) smoked trout
1/4 cup finely minced fresh chives
1/4 cup finely minced fresh parsley
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh dill
a few leaves of lettuce for serving

Remove the skin from the trout and discard it, along with any bones. Break the trout into bite-sized pieces and mix it with the cold cooked wild rice and peas. Wash, dry, and mince the herbs and add them. Toss the salad with the dressing, and serve it arranged over a few lettuce leaves.

A Visit to Trend Aquafresh Organics

Last Friday we found ourselves down near St. Catharines, so we took the opportunity to visit one of the many greenhouses in the Niagara area - Trend Aquafresh Organics. This was a medium-sized unmarked greenhouse on a gravel side road. Trend Aquafresh does sell directly to customers, but almost all of their sales are through wholesalers or to restaurants. They also specialize in something quite unusual: edible flowers! There are also lots of herbs and some kale and lettuce to fill out those salads.

We were given a tour of the greenhouse by Ton Boekestyn, who owns it along with his wife, Jackie. Their website notes they have been in business since 1991, but this greenhouse dates from 2014, so it is really quite new. Ton discussed a number of projects with which they are experimenting, but it seems they are still finding their complete niche.

In the meantime, though, they are selling those edible flower and herbs, as well as a few greens. Most of these are grown hydroponically,  and it's really interesting to see how they do it. Large, relatively shallow tanks float sheets of styrofoam, with holes punched into them in a grid in which the plants reside. Their roots trail in the water and take up nutrients.The tanks are low enough not to be huge, but high enough to be at a reasonable level to work with.

I forgot to ask the size of the greenhouse, but I would guess at least 4 acres. About one third to one half of that seemed to be taken up with various tanks. From this angle we are looking mostly at kale and lettuce. It looks very picked over, because it is. Small leaves are harvested regularly and sent to the packaging line (seen in the second photo).

A gap in the trays shows the water. An overhead systems allows the sheets of styrofoam to be moved about and accessed.

Ton lifts a tray to show the roots underneath. They are certified organic, and add organic fertilizers to the water to keep the plants growing well.

After this long (looooong) gloomy winter, it was so nice to see the trays of flowers in bloom. Here are marigolds. I didn't really take pictures of the herbs, because they were a bit of a blur of clipped green pots, but there are 14 or 15 kinds of mint, lavender, sage, basil, oregano, and some unusual things - Vietnamese coriander, Jamaican sour cherry, and peppery herb that I forgot to write down the proper name of - my tongue was in shock - but which like the Vietnamese coriander is actually a member of the persicaria family. There are a number of ornamental leaves as well, various clover-like plants, geraniums, and hibiscus.

Meanwhile they are also growing tomato, pepper, and cucumber starts including cucamelon and African horned melon, which will be grown inside through the summer to keep producing into November. (I had said they went outside originally but Ton corrected me here.) There were quite a few things that had been brought by workers in the greenhouse for Ton to try out. Ton said they were growing over 75 different things altogether. I felt like I had met a fellow sufferer from the urge to grow everything. Although I'm not so sure sufferer is the right word for us... for our families, maybe.

Here are pansies in a striped range of colours. You are most likely to find these as garnishes on your plate when you eat at a fancy restaurant in Toronto.

More pansies, in a cheerful blend. Imagine your salad looking like this!

Ton intends to also raise fish. The tanks are in, and he has already experimented with trout. The greenhouse gets too hot for them though. He has licenses for pickerel, sturgeon, and sauger. I am particularly intrigued by the idea of sturgeon, which I have only ever eaten once, but which I thought was absolutely delicious.

Lorenzo's Pastel de Pescado

This recipe was carefully written in Lorenzo's trained architect hand, in Spanish, into Dad's cook book, by Lorenzo. Dad met Lorenzo somewhere in South America and in typical Dad fashion went on to remain friends with Lorenzo and his family for the rest of his life; I'm pretty sure he went to his wedding amongst many other events. In fact, when Mr. Ferdzy and I walked the Camino we went and stayed with Lorenzo and his wife Judith.

This is a simple and tasty dish, and although Lorenzo gave instructions for cooking the fish it would be an excellent way to use leftover cooked fish. Lorenzo called for white fish, but noted that salmon could also be used.

4 servings
1 hour 30 minutes including cooking the fish

1 medium onion
500 grams (1 pound) firm fleshed white fish
3 bay leaves
2 tablespoons white wine or wine vinegar
4 large eggs
1 cup diced stewed tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
a little grating of fresh nutmeg
OR 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika
1 teaspoon unsalted butter

Peel and chop the onion, and put it in a small pot with the fish, bay leaves, and white wine or vinegar. Bring up to a simmer and cook, covered, for 6 to 10 minutes until the fish is cooked. Let cool enough to handle.

Put a pan of water into the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. 

Whisk the eggs in a mixing bowl with the tomatoes, salt, pepper, and nutmeg or paprika. Remove and discard any skin and bones from the fish, and break it into small bits into the eggs. Mix well.

Butter a small, shallow baking dish generously and pour in the fish and egg mixture. Spread it out evenly. Place it in the oven, either in the pan of water or on a rack directly above it, depending on whether you have a reasonable bain marie set-up or not... yeah, I had to fudge it but it seemed to work okay. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until set and very lightly browned. Let rest for 5 or 10 minutes before serving.





Last year at this time I made Garlicky Dill Vegetable Salad.