Ukrainian Egg & Green Onion Pie

Egg pies are very common in Ukrainian cuisine, often in the context of Easter and mostly made with a yeast-raised dough. This one is more like the Russian "lazy" pies I have been making for the last few years, with a baking powder batter encasing, in this case, hard boiled eggs and green onions along with some other herb if you can get it. The result is an excellent breakfast, brunch, or lunch dish that goes together very easily and doesn't take all that long to bake either. 

 

I used spelt flour, as I so usually do; it worked very well. 

 

4 to 6 servings

1 hour - 30 minutes prep time

 

Prepare the Filling:

4 large eggs

1 bunch green onions

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley OR dill

salt & freshly ground black pepper

 

Put the eggs in a pot of water to cover, and bring them to a boil. Boil for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and cover. Let them sit for 10 minutes, then place them in cold water to cool. 

 

Wash, trim, and chop the herbs. Peel the eggs, chop them coarsely, and add them. Season with salt and pepper.

Make the Pie & Bake:

1 1/4 cups whole spelt flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/3 cup thick yogurt

3 large eggs

1 teaspoon unsalted butter 

Mix the flour, salt, and baking soda, ideally right in the measuring cup. Mix the mayonnaise and yogurt in a mixing bowl, and break in the eggs and mix one at a time. 

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a 9" pie plate with the butter. 

 

Mix the flour into the wet ingredients until well blended. Spread about half the batter in the prepared pie plate, then sprinkle the eggs and herbs evenly over them. Dollop the remaining batter over the eggs and herbs until they are covered. 

 

Bake at 350°F for 30 to 35 minutes, until cooked through. Let rest until just warm or room temperature before serving. Keep any leftovers well wrapped in the fridge, but bring them back up to room temperature to serve. However, this is best freshly made.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Leek & Sorrel Quiche.

Maple-Tahini Haystacks

I was surprised to do the math on these and see that they are really not too bad for carbs. They were hauntingly delicious, and honestly? At half a cup of maple syrup I thought they were a touch too sweet. I might try them again with 1/3 of a cup of maple syrup. Of course, I have gotten used to barely-sweet treats. The other thing I would change next time is the size of oat flake I use. This time I used large flake oats, and found them a little too prominent. I think quick-cook oats would be better. But large flakes did not keep them from being scarfed down with enthusiasm. Hauntingly delicious, did I say? 

Like other dropped unbaked (stove-top) cookies these are stupidly fast and easy to make. I found they stayed a little sticky (another reason to reduce the maple syrup slightly?) so they were best kept in the fridge, with plenty of parchment paper to keep them separate, but they were eaten quickly enough it wasn't a big deal. 

I am trying not to make sweets too often, so it may take me a while, but if I change the amount of maple syrup I will update this recipe.

 

Makes 24

20 minutes prep time

1 1/4 cups rolled oats

1/4 cup oat bran

1/3 cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup maple syrup

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons tahini

 

Measure out the oats and oat bran and set them aside mixed together. Set out a sheet of parchment.

 

Put the butter, maple syrup, and salt into a heavy-bottomed 1 litre/quart pot and bring to a boil. Boil gently but steadily for 5 minutes. Stir in the tahini and remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the oatmeal and bran. Cover and let rest for 5 minutes.

Scoop the mixture out onto the sheet of parchment with a small disher or tablespoon. Leave them until cool and set. Keep covered in a cool, dry spot.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Nem Nuong - Vietnamese Pork Loaf.

Wild Rice & Halloumi Patties

I was a bit startled to write up this post then go to last year's date and see that I had made something extremely similar then. The thing is though, I make a lot of fried patty things; usually some variation on Vegetable Patties. They provide carbohydrate, protein, and vegetable all in one dish. Sometimes I make a little salad to go with them, but usually it's just the patties, and they are lunch; quick and satisfying. 

 

Some sort of sauce is nice to finish them off. I don't make the Apple Butter Chutney much anymore, alas, as it has too much sugar, so it's usually garlic-yogurt or a mix of half and half chile-garlic sauce and mayonnaise. The yogurt is probably the best choice for these, as it was with last year's iteration. Leftovers? Not too carby for most people to put them into a bun with some sauce and a slice of tomato and lettuce leaf. If you want to reheat them, a minute or so on each side in a hot skillet is better than the microwave.

The only salt that should go in is with the wild rice; halloumi is salty and will provide ample more. I keep meaning to rinse halloumi before I use it, just to see if it could be a little less salty.

 

4 servings

1 hour to cook the wild rice plus time for it to cool

20 minutes to make and cook the patties

 

Cook the Wild Rice:

3/4 cup wild rice

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 1/4 cups water

Place the wild rice, salt, and water in a rice cooker, and cook. This can be done up to a day in advance. 

Make the Patties:

1 medium carrot

1 small onion

1 clove of garlic

1 tablespoon mild vegetable oil

1/3 cup minced parsley OR cilantro

250 grams halloumi cheese

1/4 cup potato starch

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon rubbed savory OR thyme

2 large eggs

mild vegetable oil to fry

 

Peel and grate the carrot. Peel and finely chop the onion. Peel and mince the garlic. Heat the oil in a small skillet and cook the carrot and onion gently over medium heat until softened, stirring regularly. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or so. Transfer to a mixing bowl and let cool slightly. 

 

Wash, dry, and mince the parsley or cilantro. Grate the cheese. Add both to the mixing bowl of vegetables, along with the cooked and cooled wild rice, with any clumps in it broken up. Add the potato starch, seasonings, and eggs. Mix well. The mixture will be very loose and lumpy, but don't worry. Once you get it into the pan and cooking, it will rapidly become more co-operative.

 

Heat enough oil to generously cover the bottom of a large skillet, and ladle spoonfuls of the mixture in. Spread them to form neat, 1/2" thick patties. For the first 30 seconds or so, you can push the edges inwards to form neater shapes. Then cook them over medium heat for a total of 3 minutes per side, until firm and well browned. Add a little more oil as you turn them or if making new patties, if needed to prevent sticking.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made... uh, this is embarrassing, actually... Carrot-Halloumi & Dill Fritters with Garlic Yogurt. Very much the same principle, with a slight change in ingredients. This one would also go well with Garlic Yogurt.

Buckwheat with Leeks & Mushrooms

Our spring leeks have re-appeared, albeit they still look a bit tatty. This winter was very hard on them, what with the constant freezing and thawing, but they are at least usable. They are classic with mushrooms and both of them go really well with the rough, nutty flavour of buckwheat. The result is not a complicated dish, but it's best served with simply-cooked chicken or fish, and a green vegetable. 

 

If I wanted to have this as a vegetarian dish, I would nestle some fried tofu puffs (cut in half) into it as the liquid goes in. I can see that being really good. 

 

4 servings

1 hour prep time

 

 

3/4 cup buckwheat groats

1 large leek

300 grams (10 ounces) button mushrooms 

up to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, oil, OR chicken or bacon fat

1/2 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper 

1/2 teaspoon rubbed savory OR thyme

2 cups boiling chicken OR vegetable broth

Toast the buckwheat groats in a dry skillet - one that has a lid - until slightly darker in colour, with a toasty smell. Immediately tip them out onto a plate to cool and set them aside. 

Wash and trim the leek, and slice it into rounds. Clean and trim the mushrooms and slice them. 

Heat 1 tablespoon of your chosen fat in the skillet over medium heat, and gently cook the leeks until softened and reduced in volume, but don't let them get brown. When they are ready, lift them out of the pan to another plate, pressing them against the side of the pan to squeeze out as much fat as you can before transferring them. 

Add a bit more fat, enough for the mushrooms, and add them. Mix well then let them brown on both sides, stirring occasionally. Season them with the salt and pepper, and a bit of herb. Return the leeks and mix them in, then mix in the toasted buckwheat. 

Have the chicken stock at least steaming hot if not simmering, and slowly pour it into the pan of buckwheat, etc. Mix well. Leave the pan to simmer for about 10 to 15 minutes, until much of the liquid has been absorbed. Cover the skillet with the lid and reduce the heat; continue cooking for about another 10 minutes until it is completely absorbed and the buckwheat is done. Remove the skillet from the stove, leaving the lid on, and let it rest 5 minutes before serving. 

Last year at this time I made Yellow Split Peas Loaf.

Belgian Endive & Cheese Tart with Walnuts

Frozen puff pastry (not to mention all the other ingredients) makes this dish rich and elegant, but it's very simple to make. A crisp green salad is all it needs to be a complete meal, and balances out the richness very well. It does well made ahead, so it would be good for entertaining, but it can't be made too far ahead, or the pastry will go soggy. It's not this recipe - that's a hazard of puff pastry generally. A couple of hours is good though.

You could also make small versions of this; it would make an excellent appetizer or hors d'oeuvre. In that case, though, I'd expect to use twice as much puff pastry as the total area covered with the filling would diminish every time you make the tarts smaller. Expect 18 (3 x 3 squares) or 32 (4 x 4 squares) little tarts. Baking time would be a few minutes less as well, so start checking them sooner. 

I dithered a bit about making this with blue cheese; if anyone ever tries that I'd love to know about it.

 

6 servings

1 hour 15 minutes - 45 minutes prep time 

plus allow some time to cool

 

 

Prepare the Belgian Endives:

4 medium (450 grams; 1 pound) Belgian endive

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon sugar

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

 

Wash and trim the endives, and cut them in half lengthwise. 

 

Heat the butter in a skillet large enough to hold them in a single layer, and cook them over medium-high heat for 10 to 15 minutes, turning them over halfway through. Keep a lid on the skillet while they cook. As soon as they are turned over, sprinkle them with the sugar and season with salt and pepper.  

Once they are done, remove them from the heat and let them cool, at least enough to handle.

 

Make the Sauce:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon wheat flour

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3/4 cup whole milk or light cream

125 grams (4 ounces) cheese such as

   Gruyere, Gouda, Friulano - something tangy but melty

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

a few good grates of nutmeg

1 large egg 

Heat the butter, flour, and mustard in a saucepan and mix until they form a smooth paste; let it cook for a minute or two then mix in the milk or cream, a little at a time, to form a smooth sauce. Add the cheese, grated or cut in dice. Stir to melt it, and add the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. The amount of salt to add is going to depend very much on how salty the cheese is, but in general this dish calls for shakes of the salt shaker and not any kind of spoonfuls. 

When the cheese is melted, remove the pan from the heat. Allow it to cool enough that you can beat in the egg without the egg being in danger of cooking.

 

Assemble & Bake the Tart:

225 grams (8 ounces) frozen puff pastry, thawed 

a handful of walnuts

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

 

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Roll out the pastry on a baking tray lined with parchment. Spread half of the cheese sauce over it, leaving an inch and a half to 2 inches all around. 

 

Slice the cooked pieces of endive, discarding the solid centres, and arrange them over the cheese sauce and pastry. Dot the remaining cheese sauce over them, and spread it out evenly.  Sprinkle with walnuts, and with the Parmesan cheese. Fold up the edges of the pastry to form low sides.

Bake for about 30 minutes, until set and nicely browned. Let cool to at least just warm, or to room temperature, before serving. 

Last year at this time I made Carrot, Halloumi, & Dill Fritters with Garlic Yogurt.

Digestive Biscuits

Late March oaty baking goodness, right on schedule. Actually, I've been making these somewhat regularly all winter because I'm kind of addicted to them. They are barely sweet enough to count as a cookie, and their high fibre count makes them really quite virtuous. Although we won't discuss the butter, sigh. I knew there was a reason I can't keep away from them.

 

My estimate of 1 hour baking time assumes they all go into the oven at once, and of course they will need time to cool. 

 

36 biscuits (cookies)

1 hour - 30 minutes prep time

 

1 cup quick cook rolled oats

1 cup whole spelt flour

1/2 cup oat bran

1/2 cup wheat bran

1/4 cup ground flaxseed

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup Sucanat OR coconut sugar

2/3 cup cold unsalted butter

6 tablespoons light cream Or whole milk 

Mix the dry ingredients in a mixing bowl. Grate in the butter, and work the mixture with your fingers until there is no powdery, floury material left; everything should be in buttery crumbs. Mix in the milk or cream to make a firm dough. 

Roll the dough into a cylinder in parchment paper, and refrigerate for 10 minutes.

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Slice the cylinder of dough into 36 even slices (I find a serrated bread knife the best for this) then lay them on a parchment-lined baking tray (or two, if needed). They don't expand much but should not be overcrowded. I find it best to pat and press them down to an even thickness and shape by hand. Alternatively, you could roll the dough out with a rolling pin and cut them that way. 

 

Bake the prepared biscuits for 20 to 25 minutes at 350°F, until dry and slightly browned. Store in a dry, air-tight container for up to 2 weeks. 

Last year at this time I made Hot Cross Naan.

Russian Meat Pie

I'm giving instructions for making this as 1 large pie, but I actually made one medium pie (for my mother and I) and a couple of individual pies (for Mr. Ferdzy). This will all make sense when I also tell you that the medium pie was made with chopped lamb liver (could have use beef, or chicken for that matter) and the smaller ones had regular ground beef in them. The kind of meat you use in these is really very flexible; it just has to be chopped up fairly finely. 

This is another relative of the Russian pies made with some combination of yogurt/sour cream/mayonnaise, and no complaints here. It was lovely. 

As with the meat, the herbs can be changed around. If there's anything that's immutable, I'd say that lots of onions are required. 

It feels strange publishing a Russian recipe at the moment, but let's try to remember that people are not their nation's politics. I'd like to share a story I heard of a woman in our town, a friend of my mother-in-law's. She used to go around and share her history with high-school students. She came from Poland (I think), and was a teenager during WWII. When the Russians came in from the east, she was on the road as a refugee. She was seized by a band of Russian soldiers, raped, and left to die in a snow-bank. A little while later another band of Russian soldiers came along, who pulled her out and gave her medical treatment and took care of her until she could get to a better situation. 

Let's remember that every society has its smashers and its menders. Let us be on the side of the menders and support them wherever we can find them.

 

8 servings

1 hour 30 minutes - 45 minutes prep time

 

 

Make the Pastry:

1 1/2 cups whole spelt flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/3 cup cold unsalted butter

1/2 cup thick yogurt

 

Mix the spelt flour with the salt and baking powder in a mixing bowl. Grate in the butter, pausing to dust the flour over it every so often. Rub the butter into the flour until evenly distributed but still in little lumps. Mix in the yogurt to form a ball of stiff dough. Cover and set it aside.

 

Make the Filling:

3 medium onions

3 cloves of garlic

1 medium carrot 

1 tablespoon bacon fat or mild vegetable oi

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

400 grams (scant pound) ground beef or other meat

1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley and/or dill

 

Peel and chop the onions. Peel and mince the garlic. Peel and grate the carrot. 

 

Heat the fat or oil in a large skillet and cook the onions and carrot gently over medium heat, stirring regularly, until softened and reduced. Add the garlic and seasonings. Add the ground or finely chopped meat, and cook until browned but still with a fair bit of pink showing. Remove the pan from the heat. 

Wash, dry, and chop the herbs. 

Roll out the pastry to fit your pie plate(s). Spread the filling out in it evenly, and sprinkle with the chopped fresh herbs. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 

Make the Topping:

1 cup thick yogurt

1/4 cup mayonnaise

3 large eggs

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

Whisk the mayonnaise into the yogurt, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Season with the salt and pepper, and whisk again. Pour this evenly over the prepared pie(s). Shake them gently to settle the topping into the meat. 

Bake at 375°F for 45 to 50 minutes for a single pie, or for 30 to 35 minutes if you have made 6 single pies. In any case the filling should be just set in the middle, and show some brown spots. 

Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving; also fine at room temperature.

Polish Egg Cutlets

This is the time of year when people often find themselves with a lot of hard-boiled eggs left over, and it's always nice to have something a little different to do with them. These are quick and simple, and who doesn't like cutlets? (Yeah, I know - somebody doesn't. Not me though; I just love them.) 

 

Eat them plain or put them in a sandwich. Have them for breakfast or lunch. Add a little sautéd garlic andd/or mushrooms. Bind them with a little leftover mashed potato instead of the flour. There are lots of possibilities with these. 

 

5 or 6 cutlets - serves 2 or 3 

30 minutes prep time

4 large eggs

1 or 2 green onions or 1/4 cup minced chives

salt & freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon barley or wheat flour

1/4 cup grated firm cheese, optional

1 large egg

1/3 cup fine dry breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons mild vegetable  oil

 

Put the 4 eggs in a pot with water to cover and bring them to a boil. Boil for 1 minute, then cover the pot and let them sit in the hot water for 10 minutes. Rinse under cold water until they are cool. 

 

Peel and mash the eggs fairly finely. Season them with salt and pepper to taste. Add the flour, and the cheese if you are using it. Break in the raw egg, and mix to smooth mash. 

Spread the breadcrumbs on a plate. Divide the mixture into 5 or 6 equal portions, and flatten each one into a patty. Press each one into the breadcrumbs on both sides. 

Heat the oil over medium heat. Fry the patties until golden-brown on each side; about 3 minutes per side. Serve at once. 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Carrot & Sauerkraut Soup.

Swedish Rye Flatbread

These were fun to make and I loved the flavour of the bread spice in them. Crackers are as easy to make as cookies, and I think should be made at home more often. 

 

Having said that... I will probably continue to buy most of my Scandinavian style rye crackers. This definitely lacks the convenience factor.

 

If you want to get serious, though, there is a special rolling pin for Scandinavian crispbreads and flatbreads, which rolls in a waffle-like texture. I'd kind of like to get my hands on one, but I probably won't because of space considerations. And laziness. 

 

Traditionally these were made in large quantities and hung from the rafters using a hole cut in the middle before baking. Yay! Dusty, smoky crackers. But the good news is, these will keep very well and may even improve with sitting. (We ate ours fast enough I can't say that for sure.) For storage, though, I recommend more of a cool, dark, and air-tight environment. 

8 to 16 large crackers

40 minutes work time, broken up; includes baking

2 1/2 to 3 hours rising time

1 cup warm water

1 teaspoon yeast

2 cups coarse whole rye flour

1 cup whole spelt flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons fennel seed AND 1 1/2 teaspoons caraway seed

OR 1 tablespoon bread spice

rye or spelt flour to knead and roll out

1 teaspoon mild vegetable oil

a little coarse sea-salt 

The water should be just warm to the touch; add the yeast and let it dissolve as you mix the remaining ingredients. 

Mix the rye flour, spelt flour, salt, and spices in a large mixing bowl. Mix in the water to form a dough, then turn it out on a clean counter or board to knead. Dust it with flour as required to keep it from sticking. Knead for 5 minutes, or a little longer if necessary, to form a smooth, elastic dough. 

 

Use the oil to grease a clean mixing bowl. Turn the dough over in it to coat it, then cover it with a slightly damp tea towel and leave it to rise in a warm spot for 2 hours. 

 

Preheat the oven to 400°F. 

Divide the ball of dough into 8 to 16 evenly sized pieces. Roll them out on a clean, flour-dusted surface very thinly, one at a time. Pierce each one all over with a fork, then sprinkle with a little coarse sea salt. press it in gently, then transfer the flatbread to a pizza pan or baking pan. You can put as many as will fit on each pan; they can be crowded but should not touch. You can cut a circle out from the middle of each one if you like - lay out the circles to bake too. Let them rise again for half an hour to an hour.

 

Bake for 8 minutes, then turn them over. Bake for a further 7 to 9 minutes, until lightly browned and firm. Let cool. They can be wrapped up and stored until wanted, or hung from the rafters if you prefer. 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Two Potato & Celeriac Salads.

Date & Apple Cake

I like to kid myself that things made with dates are "low sugar" but I'm afraid they are mostly just delicious. Still, this has a lot less sugar than most cakes.  

Like quite a few cakes with a lot of fruit in them, this can be a bit awkward to mix at the end, because the fruit seems so excessive to the quantity of batter, hence the slightly odd instructions for a combination of layering and mixing. It all works out fine in the end though, and this makes a tasty end to a meal, a good snack, or even a breakfast treat. 

Because of the amount of apple chunks in this it will not store outstandingly well. As usual, I can't say I find that a problem... it just has to be eaten. Too bad; so sad.

 

12 to 16 servings

1 hour - 15 minutes prep time

 

1 1/2 cups whole spelt flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt 

1/3 cup unsalted butter

2 tablespoons honey

2 large eggs

1/2 to 1 cup diced dates

4 medium apples

1/2 cup milk or light cream

Measure the spelt flour and mix in the baking powder and salt. Line an 8" x 8" pan with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

In a mixing bowl, cream the butter and beat in the honey. Beat in the eggs, one at a time.

Chop the dates, discarding the pits, if any. Peel, core, and dice the apples fairly finely. 

Mix about half the flour into the creamed butter etc. Mix in the milk or cream, then the remainder of the flour. Mix in the dates. Because of the very large quantity of apples going into this, I found it easiest to spread about 1/3 of the batter over the bottom of the prepared pan. Sprinkle 1/3 of the apples over this, and press them gently in. Mix the remainder of the apples into the batter and scrape it all into the pan. Spread it out evenly, pressing down slightly to remove any air gaps. 

Bake at 375°F for about 45 minutes, until lightly browned and firm to the touch (done). Let cool 5 minutes then remove from the pan to a rack to finish cooling. 

Keeps for several days well-wrapped and refrigerated.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Roasted Onions with Sherry & Vinegar. 

Bulgur Mujadarra

Mujadarra is usually made with rice, not bulgur, but bulgur works very well too, and is a better choice for me nowadays. 

 

Mr. Ferdzy and I both grew up eating brown rice and lentils as it was a popular food with the hippie-health food crowds in which we both ran. It was healthy and very cheap and filling - still is. It wasn't until much later I discovered that the best part of the combination was the caramelized onions. Of course, unlike the base they take a fair bit of time and attention, generally lacking on the part of frazzled parents. I find I can get a lot of other things done in the kitchen while they cook, though; emptying or loading the dishwasher, wiping the counters, checking the fridge for science experiments, or if all else fails I sit at the table with a book in between the stirrings of the onions.

 

4 servings

1 hour prep time

 

 

Cook the Lentils & Bulgur:

2/3 cup green or brown lentils

2/3 cup coarse bulgur

1 or 2 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 cups water

 

Rinse the lentils and bulgur; drain well. Put them in a rice cooker with the bay leaves, salt, and water. Turn on and let them cook until done. If done before the onions, keep them warm. 

Cook the Onions & Finish:

3 medium-large onions

3 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

a little salt

freshly ground black pepper

1/4 to 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper

a little parsley to garnish 

Peel the onions and cut them in half from pole to pole. Cut them in half again, if the onions are large, then slice them into half or quarter moon pieces, thin but not in shavings. 

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring regularly, until the onions soften and reduce in volume, and take on a golden colour. This cannot be hurried, and will take 30 to 40 minutes, more likely 40 minutes. If they are browning too quickly, reduce the heat. Season with a little salt early in the process to help draw out the liquid from them. Add the other seasonings close to the end. 

When the onions are ready, remove about 1/3 or 1/2 of them to a small plate. Mix the cooked lentils and bulgur into the remaining onions in the pan, and let it all heat through and get well amalgamated. Serve with the remaining onions spread over the top, and a sprinkling of chopped parsley. 

Last year at this time I made Green Beans in Savory Sauce.

Stewed Lamb Pie

You could, I suppose, serve the filling just as a stew, but somehow putting it in a puff pastry crust makes it clear just how special and delicious this really is. We got some lovely lamb from Wooldrift Farm this year, and this was our first big try-out, on Christmas day. It was definitely worthy of that special spot. We thought this hit the perfect spot between nicely seasoned, but letting the flavour of the lamb speak for itself.

I had made some lamb broth which no doubt added to the intensity of flavour, but if you can't get it beef or chicken broth would do. I also pre-cooked the lamb in our Instant Pot, but you could stew it slowly instead if you don't have one. Should I confess that I used the heart in this dish? Mr. Ferdzy "doesn't like it" but it's just a particularly tough cut of stewing meat, and if you order a complete lamb you will get one. I cut it to about 1/4 of the size of the other pieces and proceed - no one has yet detected them.

The filling should be warm when you assemble the pie - too cold and it will take a long time to bake, too hot and you will really struggle with the pastry, which will want to melt rather than fold around it. By using the full-sized sheets you will have eight points around the edge, which should be folded inward once tucks have been made in the upper sheet to seal the edges of the lower sheet.

 

6 to 8 servings

1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours to pre-cook the lamb - 30 minutes prep time

1 1/2 to 2 hours to cook the pie - 40 minutes prep time

 

 

Pre-Cook the Lamb:

1/4 cup barley or wheat flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons rubbed savory

3/4 teaspoon rubbed rosemary

2 bay leaves

freshly ground black pepper to taste

900 grams (2 pounds) stewing lamb

2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

1 cup lamb, beef, or chicken broth  (can replace up to 1/2 with red wine) 

Mix the flour and the spices in a mixing bowl, then gently toss the prepared lamb in it - the lamb should be trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1" cubes, and if at all wet patted dry with paper towels.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and brown the floured meat in two batches to allow it to be well spread out in a single layer as it cooks. Put the browned meat into a large stewing pot or Instant Pot as it is done. 

Add the broth or broth and wine. If cooking in a stewing pot, simmer gently for an hour to an hour and a half until tender. If using the Instant Pot, cook for 30 minutes and allow it to release naturally. 

This can be done up to a day ahead and refrigerated; and it's a good idea as that will allow you to remove excess fat while it is congealed.

Make the Pie:

2 medium carrots

1 large onion

2 stalks of celery OR 1 cup peeled diced celeriac

3 or 4 cloves of garlic

2 tablespoons lamb fat OR mild vegetable oil

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

up to 1 cup more lamb, beef, or chicken broth

450 grams (1 pound; 1 package) thawed from frozen puff pastry

 

Peel the carrots and cut them in dice. Peel and chop the onion. Wash, trim, and chop the celery or peel and dice the celeriac. Peel and mince the garlic. 

 

Heat the fat in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the carrots, onion, and celery, and cook gently for 10 to 15 minutes, until softened and tender. You may want to add a bit of water and broth to help cook the carrots, but not so much that it won't cook off in the allotted time. 

 

Add the garlic, Worcestershire sauce, and balsamic vinegar, and cook for a minute more, then add the stewed lamb along with any sauce that it is in. Add a little more broth if it seems dry. Heat the mixture through and simmer for a few minutes. It should be thick and saucy but not runny. Let cool for about 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Gently roll one sheet of pastry to expand it slightly. Place it in a 9.5" pie plate. The short sides of the pastry should come most of the way up the sides of the pie plate, and the corners will hang over. Fill it with the warm lamb filling. 

Roll out the remaining sheet of pastry in the same way as the first. Place it on top of the pie so that the corners of the top piece are in between the corners of the bottom piece. Lift them one at a time so that you can see the lower piece of pastry. Pull the lower piece of pastry away from the side of the pan and tuck the top piece down between them to seal it. The corner will stick up; fold it in over the pie. Repeat with the remaining three corners/sides. Cut some vent holes in the top of the pastry. Place the pie plate on a baking sheet, in case of leakages, and bake the pie for 50 to 60 minutes, until golden-brown. Let it rest 10 minutes before serving. 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Braised Oxtail with Dried Tomatoes, Peppers, & Beans. 

Fish Fillets in Potato Crust

When I made Gomel-Style Cutlets a while back I threatened to coat other foods to be pan-fried in grated potato, and now I've finally done it. This is a bit like fish and chips, chips included with the fish. A little cole slaw or other salad should finish the meal nicely.

This is a very simple way to cook fish, but I'd say there are two points to watch carefully for success. The first is to be sure your fish fillets are as dry as you can reasonably get them, or the potato crust won't stick well. The second is that while they are being cooked, do not press them down into the oil. I did that, and it packed the potato together too firmly - I believe it would have been a little more crispy if I had managed to refrain. Still, we all enjoyed these and I will try to improve my technique by making it again.

 

2 servings

30 to 40 minutes prep time

 

675 grams (1.5 pounds) white fish fillets

1/3 cup barley or wheat flour

freshly ground black pepper OR other seasonings to taste

2 large eggs

450 grams (1 pound; 3 medium-large) white potatoes

1/4 teaspoon salt

mild vegetable oil to fry 

If you start with frozen fish, it must be thawed. In any case, unwrap the fish fillets and lay them on a good pad of paper or kitchen towels; if kitchen towels preferably clean, but not your good ones. Let them blot and dry thoroughly while you prepare the other ingredients. 

Put the flour on a plate and mix in any seasonings you wish to use. I kept it simple with just some pepper, but a little paprika and thyme would be a good choice. Whisk the eggs on another plate. Wash, peel, and grate the potatoes. Mix them with the salt and let them sit for a few minutes, then squeeze them well to remove and discard as much liquid from them as possible. Put them on another plate. 

Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Pour in about 1/4" of oil. While it heats, coat each fish fillet in flour on both sides, then in egg on both sides, and then in the potatoes, ensuring an even coating of potato all over. Lay them in the hot oil and cook for about 5 minutes per side, until golden-brown. If they do not all fit in the pan (unlikely unless you are using a fairly large griddle) put them on a platter in the oven, kept warm at 200°F until they are all done. Add a little more oil to the pan as required in cooking them. Serve as quickly as possible.

Last year at this time I made Apple-Peanut Cole-Slaw with Coconut-Curry Dressing.

Labneh Cheesecake

"I hope you won't take this the wrong way," said Mom as she ate her piece of birthday cheesecake, "but this reminds me of Sara Lee." 

 

I didn't take it the wrong way; I had been thinking that myself. I used to love a Sara Lee cheesecake as a kid, when it was a rare treat. Mine is better of course; a little less sweet and gummy and we could ladle on the strawberry sauce ad lib.

 

I used my own homemade graham crackers for the crumbs to keep them lower carb (I'm now only using 2 tablespoons each of the Sucanat and honey; it's fine) but you will need to make them a day ahead in that case. I was also feeling reckless and decided not to pre-bake the crust. Other than a couple of pieces I should have ground finer floating up, it worked just fine - the crust was a bit softer than it would have been otherwise, but I quite liked that. It added to the Sara Lee effect.

If you can't get labneh, it's cheese, but cheese that is yogurt strained until it is too thick to stir easily. Be sure to use a good quality yogurt with no gelatine, gums, powdered milk, or other muckings about in it. One with a bit of fat to it will be a good choice. Still, for cheesecake, this hits a magic spot between relative restraint and rich creamy goodness. You will need about twice as much yogurt to make the cheese, i.e. for 450 grams labneh you will need 900 grams yogurt.

 

I forgot to grease the sides of the tin and probably baked the cake about 5 minutes too long, hence the cracking. Next time I might pour some water into the lower baking pan too. But with the sauce covering it up, nobody really noticed the cracks.

 

8 to 12 servings

1 hour 15 minutes - 30 minutes prep time 

NOT including making the graham crackers OR labneh

 

 

 

Make the Crust:

2 cups graham cracker crumbs

1/4 cup melted butter 

 

Crush the crackers to smooth crumbs, then mix in the melted butter. Line a 9" spring-form pan with parchment paper, and butter the sides. Press the graham crumbs firmly and evenly into the pan. 

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Make the Filling & Bake:

450 grams labneh (yogurt cheese)

the finely grated zest of 1/2 large lemon

the juice of 1/2 large lemon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup honey

4 large eggs

1/4 cup potato starch

 

Put the labneh in a mixing bowl, and add the lemon zest, lemon juice, vanilla extract, and salt. Mix well. Whisk in the honey, then the eggs, one at a time. Whisk in the potato starch. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan. 

Place the pan on a baking tray (springform pans have been known to leak) and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until just set. Let cool completely before serving.

Make the Sauce:

3 cups (frozen) strawberries OR blueberries

1 tablespoon arrowroot OR cornstarch

3 tablespoons sugar (or to taste)

 

Put the thawed or at least semi-thawed berries in a pot and mix in the starch and sugar well before turning on the heat. Heat over medium heat, stirring frequently, until thickened. Let cool before serving with the cheesecake. 

 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Clementine & Pear Salad with Cranberries & Almonds.

Honey - Almond Flour Helva

I've gotten quite obsessed with a kind of Turkish helva (aka halvah), known as "flour helva". It exists at some sort of culinary intersection between fudge and bechamel sauce, and is a popular home-made sweet in Turkey. If you are interested in the real thing, there are a lot of recipes including You-Tube videos out there. However, I thought it had real possibilities for being adapted to be much lower in sugar and carbohydrates. My version, therefore, is not going to be much like it should be, but it is something I can eat (in moderation) and I have been enjoying it very much as a Christmas treat. 

It seemed quite complicated as I read the reference recipes; it didn't help that they were all read through the prism of Google translate. However, in the end, it turned out to be really very simple once I understood the procedures. I was a bit nervous that the sugar solution ought to be boiled to a syrup, but in recipe after recipe it was not, which I believe is the reason that it could be adapted to being much lower in sugar. 

 

After I made the version below I tried it again with maple syrup; in that case measure 1/3 cup of dark maple syrup into a half-cup measure and fill up the rest with the water or other liquid as described. (I used plain water but I can see it being really good with coffee.) Also delicious.

The end result is probably a bit more cookie-like in texture than the original fudge-like version as a consequence of the greatly reduced sugar, but I find it very tasty and really, quite a big thrill! Back to the straight and narrow after the holidays. On which note, it's time to take a break. Happy Holidays to everyone! And happy (post) Solstice - the days are getting longer!

 

12 to 24 pieces

20 minutes prep time 

 

In Pot #1:

1/4 cup cinnamon tea OR water, juice, etc.

1/4 cup honey

2 tablespoons sugar OR monkfruit-erythritol sweetener

a pinch of salt

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

Brew a sweet herbal tea (I used Celestial Seasonings Apple-Cinnamon) or use plain water. I would also be inclined to experiment with pure fruit juices and perhaps coffee. To use maple syrup as the sweetener, use 1/3 cup of it and enough other liquid to bring the total to 1/2 cup as it's less concentrated than honey.

Put 1/4 cup of the tea or water in a smallish pot with the honey, salt, and sweetener. Heat over low heat until melted. Let cool for a few minutes then stir in the almond extract.

In Pot #2:

1 cup barley flour

1 cup almond flour

1/2 cup unsalted butter

Meanwhile, put the barley flour in a heavy-bottomed 2-quart (litre) pot. Heat it over medium heat, stirring frequently to constantly, until the barley flour toasts to a very light brown. Add the almond flour and continue stirring and toasting until the mixture is a fairly medium brown - about as brown as a pale brown paper bag. Add the butter, and mix it in as it melts. Continue cooking and stirring until the mixture is evenly crumbly, and a good medium paper bag brown. 

Add the contents of Pan #1 to Pan #2, being very careful - it will boil up and want to spatter. Mix well as soon as it is all in, until it forms a doughy ball. Turn it out onto a plate and let it cool for 10 minutes. Press it into an oiled 9" x 9" pan, or into candy molds, etc. I used my Madeleine pans, and got 12 pieces. Let set for at least 1 hour before turning out, and cutting it into pieces if it's a single slab. 

They last well for up to 2 weeks in a well-sealed tin kept in a cool spot. 

Last year at this time I made Braised Oxtails with Apples & Sweet Potatoes.

Tuna Quinoa Casserole

This is a pretty classic comfort-food tuna casserole, but for the fact that the usual pasta has been swapped out for quinoa. I always cook more quinoa than we will eat when I make it the first time; it keeps so well and is so handy to have for so many dishes. You can add this one to that list. 

It's a fairly large casserole; if you don't want leftover leftovers, you could cut in in half quite easily. I sprinkled a few tablespoons of water on the leftovers, covered it in foil, and reheated it in the oven to good success, though.

 

4 to 6 servings

1 hour 30 minutes - 45 minutes prep time

NOT including cooking the quinoa

 

 

Cook the Quinoa:

3/4 cup quinoa

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 cups water 

Into the rice cooker with them; turn it on; cook. Remove as soon as it is done. You could also use 2 to 2 1/2 cups leftover cooked quinoa, without or with vegetables in it; adjust the other vegetables if necessary.

Make the Casserole:

1 stalk of celery

2 medium leeks OR 1 large onion

1 medium carrot

1 or 2 cloves of garlic (optional)

125 grams (1/4 pound) button mushrooms

2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

1/4 cup barley OR other flour

2 teaspoons rubbed savory, thyme OR other herb of choice

2 cups whole milk or light cream

2 cups frozen peas, thawed

2 133-g when drained tins of tuna (chunk)

1 cup grated old Cheddar cheese

1 cup bread crumbs

 

Wash, trim, and chop the celery. Wash and trim the leeks, and chop them, or peel and chop the onion. Peel and grate the carrot. Peel and mince the garlic. Clean, trim, and chop the mushrooms. 

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. 

 

Heat the oil in a medium skillet, or better in a shallow casserole dish that can also be used on the stove-top. Cook the celery, leeks or onions, and carrots over medium-high heat, stirring regularly, until softened and reduces in volume. Add the garlic, flour, and other seasonings and mix in well, cooking for another minute or so until well blended and fragrant. 

Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the milk or cream, the thawed peas, the drained tuna broken into chunks, and the quinoa. Spread it all out smoothly. 

Mix the cheese and bread crumbs, and sprinkle them evenly over the casserole. Bake at 350°F for 45 to 50 minutes until nicely browned. Let it rest for 5 minutes before serving.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Spiced Boiled Fruitcake. 

Duck Strognoff with Celeriac Dumplings

Duck time! I slow-roasted a whole duck to start with, then this is one of the things I made with the leftovers. You could use sautéed sliced duck breast instead, but I looked at the price of 2 duck breasts versus the price of a whole duck, and basically I could have the legs and the rest of the duck thrown in for an additional cost of less than a quarter of the price of buying just the breasts. I just can't help being frugal even if it means I spend more money - after all, it also means I get more duck. Duck fat! Duck stock! Duck Stroganoff!

However you get your duck, this is a delicious way to serve it. I recommend adding the dill pickle, if you have it. I have to say I find I want a little sour note in my meat dishes more and more as I get older - it is so often exactly what they need. 

We had a bumper crop of celeriac this year, so I am looking for things to do with it, but this would admittedly be just as good with noodles, potatoes, or rice.

 

4 servings

30 minutes to prepare and cook the celeriac

45 minutes prep time to finish the dish

 

 

Make the Celeriac Dumplings:

1 1/2 cups mashed boiled celeriac

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 cups whole spelt flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste 

 

Peel the celeriac, putting the prepared pieces into a bowl of cold water with a bit of vinegar or lemon juice added to it. Once it is all peeled, cut it into evenly sized chunks. Cover with water and boil until tender; about 20 minutes but depending on the exact size of the chunks. 

 

Lift the cooked celeriac into a bowl with a slotted spoon, saving the cooking water in the pot. Add a bit more water if it is not enough to cook the dumplings.

 

Mash the celeriac thoroughly. This can be done up to a day ahead. 

 

Cream the butter and work the celeriac into it. Measure the flour and mix the baking powder, salt, and pepper into it. Work it into the celeriac to form a fairly stiff dough. If it is too stiff you may moisten it with a spoonful of the sour cream, but it should be about the texture of pie crust. Form the dough into 32 ping-pong ball sized dumplings. (Divide into quarters, then each piece in half, half again, aaand half one more time.)

 

Bring the pot of celeriac cooking water back up to a boil. Boil the dumplings for 10 to 12 minutes until firm and cooked. Drain and serve with the Stroganoff; either separately or added to their serving dish just before they are served.

Make the Stroganoff:

1/4 cup flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika

1 teaspoon rubbed savory OR thyme

2 cloves of garlic

225 grams mushrooms

1 large leek

2 duck breasts OR 3 cups diced cooked duck meat

2 to 3 tablespoons duck OR bacon fat

2 cups duck OR chicken stock

1/2 cup sour cream

1 medium dill pickle, diced OPTIONAL

 

Mix the flour and seasonings in a small bowl. Peel and mince the garlic and add it. 

 

Clean, trim, and chop the mushrooms. Wash, trim, and chop the leek. 

If using raw duck breast, cut them into 1/4" slices, and saute them in a tablespoon of fat until nicely browned on both sides. Transfer to a dish to wait. Otherwise, check your duck meat that it is free of bones and cut into neat bite-sized pieces. 

Heat the fat in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and toss them into the fat, then let them cook for several minutes until they begin to brown. Add the leek and reduce the heat slightly. Continue to cook, stirring regularly, until the leek softens and reduces slightly in volume, but don't let it brown. 

Add the little bowl of flour and seasonings, and mix in well until no white can be seen. Slowly mix in the stock, then add the duck pieces and let the mixture simmer until thickened. Mix in the sour cream (and the diced pickle, if desired), and let it heat through, but do not allow it to simmer again. Serve with the well-drained dumplings.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Lemon-Mustard Brussels Sprouts. 

Chocolate Rye Shortbread

I first made these for Christmas last year, and have been looking forward to having them again all year. They are so good! Rye makes a very smooth-textured shortbread, and much mellower in flavour than you might think. I love the bread spice blend with the chocolate; it's really quite amazing.

 

You could add a bit more sugar if you liked; conversely, you could replace at least some of it with erythritol-monkfruit sweetener. Sprinkling the tops with some large-grained decorator's sugar might also be an easy way to bring up the sweetness slightly. I thought they were lovely the way they were, though.

 

As always with cookies, baking time may vary according to how thick you make them, so do start checking them on the early side to be safe. 

 

16 to 24 cookies

40 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

 

1 cup whole rye flour

1/4 cup cocoa powder

1/4 cup potato starch

1/4 cup sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon bread spice

2/3 cup soft unsalted butter

 

Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit a baking tray. 

 

Sift all the dry ingredients into a mixing bowl and mix well. Work in the butter to make a very smooth dough. Pat it out on the parchment paper to about 1/3" to 1/2" thick and cut it into fingers or squares. Prick each cookie at least once with a fork. Space them out on the paper. 

Put the pan of cookies into the freezer for 10 minutes, while you preheat the oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Bake the cookies for 18 to 22 minutes, until firm. Let cool on a rack before removing them. Keep them in a cool, dry spot. 

Last year at this time I made Pumpkin or Sweet Potato Baked Oatmeal.

Leeks Stuffed with Smoked Trout & Wild Rice

I really, really did intend to get away from the cheese at last, but I made the leek rolls, and put them in the pan, and there they were - totally naked, and not in a good way. They needed something to keep them moist. They needed cheese. Okay. Although I think a less cheesy solution of buttered bread crumbs and Parmesan in modest quantities would also work.

Now that I have a technique down for stuffing leeks, I think they are so terrific. About the same level of difficulty to make as lasagne (which is to say, a little picky but not at all difficult) and with that same impressive presentation. And cheese; let's not forget the cheese.

 

This is not just impressive looking, it's impressive tasting, and I'm afraid that with the price of some of the ingredients the grocery bill will also be quite impressive, and not in a good way, again. Still, sometimes one must splash out a little. 

I used Friulano, which I like so much, but mozzarella may be easier to get. At any rate, it should be a moderately mild cheese, to allow the smoked trout to really shine.

 

4 servings

40 minutes advance preparation time

1 hour 30 minutes - (40 minutes prep time) to finish

Prepare the Leeks, Spinach, & Wild Rice:

1/2 cup raw wild rice

1 1/2 cups water

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 large (600 grams; 1.5 pounds) leeks

4 cups loosely-packed raw spinach

OR 150 grams (5 ounces) cooked spinach

 

Put the wild rice, water, and salt into a rice-cooker and cook. Once it is done, remove it from the pot promptly. 

 

Put a pot of water on to boil. Trim and wash the leeks. When you have the solid shank part of each one trimmed, cut it from top to bottom half-way through. This will allow you to pull out the centre of the leek, leaving 5 or 6 layers. Boil the outer layers for 4 or 5 minutes, then lift them from the boiling water, rinse them in cold water, and drain them well. (Set the inner leaves aside but keep them.) 

Wash and pick over the spinach while the leeks blanch. Blanch the spinach for just a minute or so, then rinse in cold water and drain well. Squeeze out as much water from them as you easily can, then chop them finely. 

All of these things can be done up to a day ahead, and the prepared ingredients kept refrigerated until needed.

Make the Filling & Bake:

2 medium shallots

1 or 2 cloves of garlic

125 grams (1/4 pound) button mushrooms

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon rubbed basil

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

a little grating of nutmeg

125 grams (1/4 pound; 1/2 fillet) smoked trout  

1 medium egg

250 grams (1/2 pound) smoked trout

3/4 cup 5% or 10% cream

100 grams grated mozzarella OR Friulano cheese

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

Peel and mince the shallots and garlic. Clean, trim, and slice the mushrooms - slice them in half again if the mushrooms are large. Finely chop the leftover inner leaves of the leeks.

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil or butter a 1 1/2 quart/litre shallow baking pan. 

 

Heat the butter in a large skillet, and cook the shallots over medium heat, stirring regularly, until softened. Add the leeks and mushrooms and continue cooking, stirring regularly, until they too are softened and reduced in volume. Add the seasonings, and the garlic and cook for a minute or two more. 

 

Turn the cooked vegetables into a mixing bowl and add the wild rice and finely chopped spinach. Break in the egg. Break the trout into flakes, discarding the skin, and add it to the mixing bowl. Add 1/4 cup of the cream. Stir gently to combine. 

Take 2 or 3 leaves of the blanched outer leaves of the leeks, spreading them out to form a rectangle. Put in enough filling in a line across the middle, and fold the leek leaves closed around them. Place the resulting filled leek leaves into the prepared pan. Continue filling the leek leaves until they are all done. Pour the remaining cream evenly over them. 

Grate the cheeses, and sprinkle them evenly over the pan of leeks. Bake for 50 minutes to an hour, until the cheese is bubbly and lightly browned. Let rest 5 minutes before serving.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Beets au gratin.