Pizza Crackers

Reduced carb crackers have been a very handy thing for me. I've been making these ones off and on all winter, and while they are really very good they gave me a lot of trouble to perfect. I started by putting cheese in them, but they have so many other flavours going on that it could hardly be tasted, and at the price of cheese, that's a waste. Eat your cheese on top of the crackers. Then, I modeled them on other crackers I make including the oven temperature, and they would go from not done to scorched in a couple of minutes - eventually I figured these need to be cooked longer at a lower temperature. It's all the dried vegetables in them. On that note, I think it helps to have the dough rest for 10 or 15 minutes to allow them to absorb a little of the water, so don't preheat the oven until the crackers have been rolled out.  

These are allowing me to use up the backlog of years of dried tomatoes and peppers, but if you don't dry your own and can't find dried peppers (dried tomatoes should be much easier) you could try the mixed dried vegetables sold by Bulk Barn. Because of the flax seed, flavours in general are a bit muted; it may seem like I'm putting in a lot of spice but it is required.

 

36 crackers

1 hour - 20 minutes prep time

 

1 cup chick pea flour

1 cup whole spelt flour

1/2 cup almond flour

1/2 cup flax meal

1 teaspoon fennel seed

2 teaspoons rubbed oregano

1 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot chile flakes

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

2 tablespoons dried onion flakes

1/4 cup dried tomatoes, finely chopped

1/4 cup dried sweet peppers, finely chopped, optional

1/3 cup mild vegetable oil

1/2 cup water

a little spelt flour to roll out

Measure all the dry ingredients into a bowl. If you start with whole dried tomatoes or peppers, chop them very finely first; a food processor will not make them too fine - they should be in quite little bits, almost ground. 

Line a large baking tray with parchment. 

Mix the oil into the dry ingredients until it is evenly distributed. Mix in the water to form a smooth dough. It should be pliable, but neither soft nor sticky. Put it on the parchment  - it is best to move it back onto the counter from the baking tray - and roll it out thinly and evenly until it fits the dimensions of the tray. Score it with 5 lines in each direction with a pizza cutter to form 36 crackers. Poke holes in each cracker with a fork. 

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes until they look dry, and fairly crisp. Keep a close eye on them starting at the 25 minute mark. They will continue to crisp up a bit as they cool. Once cool, store in a cool, dark, and air-tight spot (cookie tin). 

Last year at this time I made Strawberry Crisp.

Blowing Hot & Cold Garden Update

The temperatures have been up and down like a yo-yo; similar to last spring. Rain has been somewhere between in short supply and non-existant. April was dryish, but some rain at the end of the month and into early May had us hoping that all would be well. Since then? Well, it appears this is a good year for Mr. Ferdzy to have invested in an irrigation system. 

This pot, though, has nothing to do with that. We're growing some peppers on the deck, in an effort to produce some pure seed. This is a variety called Targu Mures, which we got from Adaptive Seeds. I'm always a little nervous about getting seeds from the US - who knows when the tap will be turned off, and there's always the possibility of being dinged by apparently random ridiculous rates of duty. We want to keep growing these peppers, which we think are quite amazing.

Heading into the garden, you can see some hoses from the aforementioned new irrigation system. We tried one once in the past, but the hoses were too delicate and it didn't work. We got this system from a company called Irrigation Plus, in Elmira. They're Mennonites and not on the internet. They do have phones, though, and sent us a catalogue on request and then spent a lot of time helping Mr. Ferdzy figure out exactly what we needed. Quality thus far appears much better than that first, failed system. 

Blueberries are blossoming quite heavily, although I worry they may have been damaged by some days of extremely high heat. We'll find out, I guess. Haskaps and strawberries looking good. You can barely see them as a pale green patch above the wheelbarrow, but I finally got some poppies for poppy seeds to germinate. Apparently the secret is to plant them REALLY early - if they don't freeze and thaw several times don't expect to see them; I never have. 

This section also has the new fence mostly installed around it, and once it's complete we hope to be able to drape it with bird netting and actually harvest a reasonable portion of the fruit.

Peas went in in March, but have only recently started to stretch out. We gave them a couple of good waterings, once by hand and once with the irrigation system, and that seemed to get them growing again. They are now starting to blossom, so peas ahoy!

 

In the background, one of the last few unplanted beds, which will be planted with sweet potatoes once the weather warms up again. Beyond that, garlic is looking extremely good. 

Beans have been planted and are mostly up - the very warm middle part of May encouraged me to rush everything out; it felt like I had missed the window for planting, in fact - but now things are more back to normal and we have covered this bed as it contains the very tender Lima beans. First time we have ever direct seeded Lima beans.

 

Some turnips and rutabagas overwintered, not too unusually, and I left them to go to seed. A couple of radishes also overwintered, which is unprecedented here. I'm not sure there's a critical mass (looks like 3) for producing seed, but I've left them to try. To my disappointment, no cauliflowers or Brussels sprouts survived the winter, so no seeds there, as is frustratingly usual.

The first bed of tall peas and beans - mostly peas - has been trellised, leaving 2 more still to do, in Mr. Ferdzy's copious spare time. You can see the end of the irrigation system, with a very fancy and sturdy timer attached. We've tried timers before too, but this one looks sturdy enough to be a keeper. 

 

THOSE LEEKS! I continue to be amazed at just how spectacular they are. No signs that they are going to flower yet, but I suspect flowering stalks are forming. I am so excited about these and hope they produce a lot of seeds. 

You can hardly see them, but this is officially a tomato bed, and they are in and looking good, although what they will think of the cold nights we are having at the moment remains to be seen. The bed behind the leeks is also a (mostly) tomato bed, but the onions, carrots, and cabbage interspersed with them to go to seed are still more prominent. That will change, or at least we hope so!

Spinach and lettuce, looking okay. They need water, and the spinach is, as usual, bolting even though quite small. I'm also marking with little yellow flags everywhere that potatoes are coming up as weeds from being missed during harvest, in the hopes that this will be the year I finally eradicate most of them. There are some in just about every bed that has ever had potatoes planted in them, sigh. Yellow flags also mark asparagus seedlings to be moved in the fall.

Seen those leeks somewhere, before! But all the peppers and eggplant are also in, and thus far seem to be doing very well, apart from the fact that something seems to be nibbling the eggplant leaves. Time for a sprinkle of diatomaceous earth. 

I missed photographing the strawberries at the peak of their flowering, but it sure looks like this is going to be a bumper strawberry year! They are wildly overcrowded and need to be moved to a different bed, but that will be a job for the fall. This year for sure; we've only been saying that for the last 3 years. But really, this year for sure. 

They've thinned out at one end and don't seem to want to recolonize that spot, but otherwise look very good. Asparagus behind them needs weeding desperately. They get very weedy, being perennials with easily damaged roots, but if I don't keep on top of it the job becomes impossible - it is one of the reasons we abandoned the old asparagus beds (that, and it was a lousy location chosen by the previous owners of this house). In the foreground, the sorrel is bolting like crazy, which is awfully early but explained by the ridiculous heat and drought we've had so far. In the background, the rhubarb is doing the same, just a little slower. 

Mr. Ferdzy is at about the halfway point in installing the new fence. Of course, we are seeing fewer rabbits this year (although not none) and we have a sneaking suspicion that the one deer that has driven us crazy for years died over the winter. We found some remains in the far corner of the yard in the early spring, and haven't seen any signs of deer incursions since. All I can say is, it figures. 

I'm amazed at how well we've both been holding up under the onslaught of extra work. Mr. Ferdzy keeps plugging away - he's hauled about half of the 22 tons of gravel; unfortunately it looks like we will need another, hopefully smaller, load. I've managed to get everything planted in good time - that burst of hot weather really helped there - and the weeds await, but don't appear to be any worse than usual. And that's about it for this time, because speaking of weeds, it's time to get out there and pull a few. Next month, expect to see a very different looking garden - everything should be well on the way to full size. Also, there is a bumper crop of blossoms on the peonies (on everything, really; atchooo!) including more of my seedlings than have ever blossomed before, so I am awaiting them with wild excitement.

Potage Argenteuil - Asparagus Soup

Asparagus has been bursting out of the earth at an amazing rate, what with how warm it has been lately. We are actually struggling to eat it all. I suspect this means it will be over early; ho-hum. (In fact it is slowing down already, although I expect another wave, at least.)

 

This soup is actually a good way to stretch a smaller amount of asparagus, although you could probably double the amount with nothing but good results. On the other hand, the sorrel is finishing up and I'll be pulling a lot of spinach this week to make way for peppers. It's going to bolt soon, anyway; such are the ways of spinach. You could leave either or both out, and have a more asparagus-y asparagus soup, in which case I would definitely suggest using a pound of it. 

 

4 servings

30 minutes prep time

 

 

250 grams (1/2 pound) asparagus

a handful or sorrel OR spinach leaves

2 to 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh chives

3 tablespoons barley flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons 10% cream

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

 

Wash the asparagus and break off the tough stems. Chop them roughly, setting aside the tips. Wash and finely shred the sorrel or spinach. Wash and mince the chives. 

 

Put 3 cups of water on to boil in a heavy-bottomed 2 quart or litre pot. When it boils add all the asparagus but the tips, and cook for 6 to 9 minutes, until very tender. 

 

Measure the barley flour into a small bowl and season it with the salt and pepper. 

 

When the asparagus is done, pour it with all of the cooking water into a blender or food processor and blend until very smooth. If it does not seem completely smooth, you may need to strain it and discard any tough stringy bits (but if you have good, tender asparagus and a decent blender this won't be a problem). 

 

Heat the first quantity of butter in the now dry pot the asparagus was cooked in. When it is melted and sizzling add the sorrel or spinach and chives, and cook for about a minute. Add the seasoned flour and work it in until no dry flour remains; cook for another minute. Begin to add the puréed asparagus a little at a time, mixing well between each addition, to keep it smooth and lump-free. Once it is all in, add the chopped asparagus tips and simmer them for 3 to 5 minutes, until tender. 

Mix in the cream and the remaining butter, and bring the soup back up to steaming hot, but do not let it boil. Serve at once. 

Last year at this time I made Asparagus, Egg & Wild Rice Salad.

Lentils & Sorrel with Poached Eggs

I've adapted this Persian-style dish to have some sorrel in it. I think the Iranians would approve; their recipes plainly show a taste for tart to downright sour flavours. As usual, if you can't get sorrel, use all spinach and squeeze a little lemon juice in. 

 

I've also broken down the instructions a lot, but really this is easy and reasonably quick. You don't have to make the garlic sauce but we thought it went really well with the rest of it. You could serve this over rice or even just toast, but it's perfectly fine eaten by itself for brunch, lunch, or dinner.  

Normally sorrel is still fine at this time of year, but mine is bolting fast. I'm still able to scrounge some, and it's been tender and tasty, but goodness! It's been so hot!

 

3 to 4 servings

40 minutes prep time NOT including cooking the lentils

 

 

Advance Preparation:

2/3 cup lentils

1 2/3 cups water

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 cups finely chopped fresh sorrel OR spinach OR combo

 

Rinse and check the lentils, and cook them in the rice cooker with the water and salt. This can be done up to a day ahead. 

 

The sorrel and/or spinach should be done just before you start cooking, but since it's a good idea to soak them in cold salted water to clean them, get it going before you start cooking. 

Make the Yogurt Sauce:

1 clove garlic

pinch of salt

1 cup thick yogurt

 

Peel and mince the garlic and mix it, with the salt, into the yogurt. Set aside until serving time.

Mix the Spices:

1 teaspoon cumin seed

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon sumac

2 or 3 cloves of garlic

 

Grind the cumin with the salt and put it in a small bowl with the rest of the spices. Peel and mince the garlic, and add it. 

 

Make the Dish:

1 large leek 

2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

2 cups chopped or crushed tomatoes

3 or 4 large eggs

Wash, trim, and chop the leek. Rinse it well again and drain well. 

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat and cook the leek until softened and reduced in volume, but not browned. Add the bowl of spices and garlic, and mix in until sizzling and fragrant. Add the crushed tomatoes and mix them in well. Add the lentils and bring up to a good simmer. Add a little water if the mixture seems too thick to poach the eggs well. 

Mix in the cleaned, drained, and chopped sorrel or spinach. As soon as it is in and wilted, and the mixture is simmering again, break in the eggs  - push a little hole into each spot where the egg is to go first - and poach them until done to your liking (4 to 10 minutes most likely). If you can put a lid over the pan for at least part of the cooking time you might get the tops of the eggs set a bit better than I managed. Serve at once. 

Oh huh, last year at this time I made Cheesy Baked Creamed Spinach.

Chebureki - Russian Meat Hand Pies

Chebureki are a simple and straightforward Russian meat hand-pie, similar to Jamaican patties or Cornish pasties, but even simpler than those because they are made with a very basic unraised dough. What I used was not the traditional wheat flour dough, but one based on the buckwheat wraps I've been making lately. Well, it is the buckwheat wraps, with a little oil added. Much better for me, and even tastier, in my opinion. 

Here is where I have to admit I actually used rye flour instead of buckwheat. Sadly, it was okay but not something I intend to repeat. Rye has a slightly sticky quality to it, and here it came across as downright gummy, possibly because the flax meal tends that way too. Next time, it will be back to the buckwheat. But otherwise, these were really delicious and much simpler and faster to make than I would have expected.

These are often described as being fried, and some people do seem to deep fry them. Shallow frying seems to be at least as common, though, and you don't need huge amounts of oil to cook them - just enough to make the dough crispy. If you have patted the filling thin enough they will easily cook through in quite a short period of time.

 

6 to 8 chebureki (3 to 6 servings)

40 minutes prep time

 

Make the Filling:

1/2 cup finely chopped parsley

1/2 cup finely chopped green onions

up to 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill, if available

1/4 to scant 1/2 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

450 grams (1 pound) lean ground beef OR lamb

 

Wash, dry, and finely chop the herbs. Put them in a mixing bowl with the salt and pepper. Add the beef and mix everything very thoroughly - with your hands is best.

Make the Dough & Finish:

1 1/4 cups water

2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil

1 cup buckwheat flour

1 cup ground flax seeds

1/2 teaspoon salt

oil to fry

 

Put the water and oil in a mid-sized saucepan and bring them to a boil. Meanwhile, mix the flour, flax meal, and salt in a small bowl. 

When the water boils, turn off the heat and dump in the dry ingredients. Immediately mix well to form a dough. Transfer it to a plate or clean counter top to cool slightly. (Soak the pan.) 

Divide the dough into 6 or 8 equal portions. Dusting them with buckwheat flour to prevent sticking, roll them out into thin circles. Divide the meat filling into 6 or 8 portions to match the dough, and flatten one portion onto each circle of dough, covering half of it to within about 1/2" of the edges of the dough. You need enough dough to pinch sealed, but the meat will shrink away from the edges as it cooks, so get it as close as is reasonable. Fold the uncovered half of the dough over the meat and press it sealed with a fork. You may wish to trim the edges with a pizza cutter to make a neat half-circle. Set each aside as they are formed. 

Heat a shallow skillet or griddle over medium heat. Add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan generously. Cook the chebureki for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Reduce the heat if they are browning too fast. Serve at once, although you can keep them warm in a 200°F oven as they are done to allow for them all to be ready at once.

Last year at this time I made Chicken Thighs Stuffed with Sorrel & Mushrooms.

Roman Tomatoes

These are probably better made with ripe tomatoes from the garden, but I made them with greenhouse tomatoes. They are a classic Italian summer dish. Usually they are roasted with potatoes and served just warm or at room temperature, like so many Mediterranean dishes. 

 

Usually they would also be made in quantity, with a tomato risotto at least partially cooked to stuff them with before they are baked. They are usually not made at home but purchased from bakeries and trattoria, when the Italian summers make it unbearable to cook. 

 

When I first came across this recipe, in an old cook book, my first thought was that it would be a good way to use up leftover rice - that slightly annoying quantity that is too much to throw away, but not enough to provide us each with a normal sized serving. But it may be enough to be thrown into soups, salads, or casseroles - or used to make these tomatoes.

 

4 tomatoes (2 to 4 servings)

1 hour 45 minutes - 30 minutes prep time

allow time to cool

 

4 medium red tomatoes, firm but ripe

1 shallot 

1 small piece of celery

about 1/4 cup finely grated carrot 

1 clove garlic

salt

1 tablespoon olive oil 

2/3 to 3/4 cup cold cooked rice

1/4 cup fresh herbs, OR 2 to 3 teaspoons dried herbs 

Slice the caps off the tomatoes and set them aside. Scoop out the insides of the tomatoes. Salt the insides of the tomatoes and set them aside while you work on the other vegetables. Chop the tomato innards, and set them aside. Peel and finely chop the shallot. Mince the celery and grate the carrot. Peel and mince the garlic. Mince whatever fresh herbs you are going to add - mint is classic, as are basil and parsley. Rosemary could be used in small quantities. I don't think cilantro is traditional, but none the worse for that. I would certainly use some chives. It will really depend on what is available, and that's fine.

Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cook the shallot, celery, and tomato for a few minutes, until softened and reduced in volume. Add the garlic and the leftover rice, and fry for a few more minutes. Then add the tomato pulp. Continue cooking, and stirring regularly, until the tomato pulp has cooked down. Remove from the heat. 

Rinse the tomatoes out and drain them well. Divide the stuffing evenly amongst them. Place the caps back on and put them into a snug-fitting, lightly oiled shallow baking pan. Drizzle in a little water around them; just enough to cover the bottom of the pan. Bake for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until quite soft. Let them cool to just warm or room temperature before serving. (Refrigerate any leftovers; they can be gently warmed or brought back to room temperature again.) 

Last year at this time I made Experimental Pizza - Reduced Carbohydrate.

Spinach & Mushroom Salad with Warm Bacon Dressing

This is a classic German salad that's also long been popular here, as well it should be. You get to feel all healthy and virtuous about the spinach and herbs, but there's also mushrooms! And bacon!! And sour cream! Well, I'm using yogurt these days because I can't get a decent sour cream for love or money. Use a full-fat one for best results. I like to add toasted sunflower and pumpkin seeds for extra crunch. 

And here we seem to be, in salad season. 

2 to 6 servings
1 hour prep time

Prepare the Salad:
6 to 8 cups baby spinach leaves
8 to 12 small button mushrooms
a good handful of parsley, if available
3 green onions
1/4 cup unsalted sunflower seeds
1/4 cup unsalted pumpkin seeds

Wash the spinach very well in cold water, then pick it over, discarding any tough stems and damaged leaves. Rinse it well again, and dry it thoroughly - salad spinner is a good idea.

Clean, trim, and slice the mushrooms. Wash, dry, and mince the parsley. Wash and trim the green onions, and chop them finely. All of this, along with the sunflower and pumpkin seeds, should go into a salad bowl. You may, if you wish, keep the green onions out and cook them in the dressing instead - it depends on how mild your onions are, and how much you like them (or not) raw. Also, if they are not purchased roasted, you may wish to toast the seeds in a dry skillet for a few minutes over medium heat before they go into the salad bowl.

Make the Dressing:
1 clove of garlic
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
maybe some salt
250 grams (1/2 pound) medium-lean bacon
1/4 cup sour cream OR thick yogurt

Peel and mince the garlic, and put it in a small bowl with the mustard, vinegar, pepper, and sugar. You MAY wish to add some salt, but it will depend very much on how salty your bacon is. Most commercial bacon is way too salty to need more added, but if you are getting good quality bacon a little salt may be beneficial - you will need to use your judgement.

Chop the bacon into pieces a little narrower than the width of the slices. Put them in a medium skillet over medium heat, and cook slowly until they have rendered quite a bit of fat and cooked to being quite crisp throughout.

Lift the bacon pieces out with slotted spoon and put them on a bit of paper towel to drain. Assess the amount of bacon fat you have in the pan. If you think there is more than the amount of oil you would use to dress the amount of salad you have, drain some of it off until it is the right amount. Otherwise, return it to the heat but turn the heat to medium-low. If you want to cook the chopped green onions, add them now and cook until well wilted, just a minute or so. Mix up the contents of the small bowl and mix them into the bacon fat. When well distributed, turn off the heat. Measure and mix in the sour cream or yogurt. Scrape the dressing over the salad. Toss well, then sprinkle the bacon bits over the salad. Serve at once.

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Sweet Potato Starch Noodle, Spinach & Sprout Salad. 

Baked Trout with Creamy Leek & Dill Sauce

We actually got into a local specialty grocery recently, and I was able to get some lovely trout from Kolapore. This was a very quick and simple way to serve it, but after all good trout (and theirs is excellent) needs no distractions. The sauce is delicious and counts as a vegetable dish, so we just added some frozen peas for good measure and with a little rice had ourselves an amazing meal.  

Leeks, carrots, and frozen peas are all just about gone. Well, everything is just about gone. Fortunately new things are coming along every day!

 

4 servings

45 minutes - 20 minutes prep time

2 medium leeks

1 medium carrot

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons barley OR other flour

freshly ground black pepper to taste

2/3 cup thick yogurt

2/3 cup light cream (10%)

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/4 cup finely minced fresh dill

the zest of 1/2 lemon

the juice of 1/2 lemon

2 trout fillets, 325 to 425 grams (12 to 16 ounces) each

Wash and trim the leeks, and chop them finely. Peel and grate the carrot. 

Melt the butter in an oven-proof baking dish that can also be used on the stove-top over medium heat. Cook the leeks and carrot for about 10 minutes, stirring regularly, until softened and reduced in volume but not browned. Season with salt and pepper, and mix in the flour. Let cook for another 5 minutes or so, stirring regularly. 

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°F. 

Mix the yogurt and cream together in a mixing bowl, with the mustard, dill, lemon zest and lemon juice. Stir it all into the cooked vegetables. (Remove them from the heat first.) Lay the trout fillets on top of the sauce, pressing them down slightly to make the fish and sauce level with each other. 

Bake for 20 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes before serving. 

 

 

 

 

Last year at this time I made Carrots with Sorrel & Spinach. 

Sorrel Soup

What an odd spring this has been - amazingly, I was able to scrounge a little sorrel and spinach in the second week of April! But since that early warm spell, it's been cool and things have come along quite slowly. Still, both those things will be much further along and available around now, with the usual proviso that about the only way sorrel is available is to grow it yourself. Highly recommended! 

This is a pretty simple and light soup, best as an introductory course to a larger meal, or served with a sandwich or some such thing. It won't be a meal in itself, and the servings indicated are fairly small ones.

 

4 servings 

45 minutes prep time

 

2 cups loosely packed fresh sorrel leaves

2 cups loosely packed fresh spinach

1 small carrot and/or 1 small parsnip

1 tablespoon chicken fat or unsalted butter

1 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon allspice berries

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon barley or other flour

2 tablespoons finely minced fresh chives

1/4 cup finely minced fresh parsley

1 cup finely minced raw spinach

4 cups unsalted chicken OR vegetable stock

1/2 cup light cream OR yogurt, optional

 

Wash the sorrel leaves - it's a good idea to soak them in cold salted water for a while to draw out any critters. Remove and discard any tough stems and damaged or discoloured leaves. Do the same with the spinach. Put them in a strainer and pour boiling water over them until they are well wilted. Let them cool, squeeze the water from them, and chop them finely.

Peel and dice or grate the carrots and/or parsnip. Heat the butter in the soup pot and add them, along with the bay leaf. Cook over medium-low heat for about 10 to 15 minutes, covered, but stirring regularly until softened.

Meanwhile, grind the allspice, pepper, and salt together finely. When the vegetables are ready, add them, along with the barley flour and the minced herbs. Mix in well, and after a minute or so to wilt the herbs, add the stock and the chopped, drained sorrel and spinach. Let simmer for about 10 minutes, then mix in the cream or yogurt, if using. Heat to the edge of simmering, but do not let the soup boil, and serve at once. It can also be served plain and a dollop of yogurt - or sour cream, if you can get any - can be added. Or not; it's fine as-is.

Chicken Pozharski

Way back many years ago I found a little cook book published by MIR, the official publishing arm of the Russian Communist government (yep, that long ago) at the library. I copied out quite a few recipes from it; this was one of them. 

 

Unlike a lot of the most famous Russian recipes, this one is not a creation by French chefs then named for Russian aristocrats; it has a fairly well-known origin in the 19th century, at an inn in Torzhok run by a family named Pozharski.  

Generally, these are fairly typical of the large family of Russian "cutlets", the defining features here being ground chicken enriched with butter and fried in a coating of breadcrumbs, then served with a creamy sauce enriched with vegetables. 

It occurs to me that these are the direct ancestor of the ubiquitous "chicken nugget". How the mighty are fallen.

 

4 servings - 8 to 12 cutlets

45 minutes prep time

 

Form the Chicken Cutlets:

2 slices of bread (about 2/3 cup of crumbs)

2 tablespoons milk or light cream 

500 grams lean ground chicken

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 large egg

1/2 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons minced fresh dill OR 2 teaspoons dry dillweed

1 large egg white

1/2 cup fine breadcrumbs

3 to 4 tablespoons oil to fry 

The bread should be stale but not dessicated; crumble it up in a mixing bowl and pour the milk on it, mixing it to moisten it completely. Once it is, add the ground chicken and butter and mix well. Add the egg, salt, pepper, and dill, and mix again. 

 

Separate the second egg, putting the egg white in a shallow bowl and the yolk aside to go into the sauce. Whisk the egg white well. Put the fine breadcrumbs into another shallow bowl. Divide the meat into 8 to 12 equal portions and roll them into neat balls. Roll each one in the egg white, then in the bread crumbs. Flatten them into patties and set them on a plate as they are done. Set them aside (in the fridge, if necessary) until the sauce is on the way to being made. They will fry up quite quickly.

Make the Sauce & Cook the Patties:

1 medium turnip

1 medium carrot

1 medium onion

1 or 2 cloves of garlic 

2 tablespoons minced parsley

1 tablespoon barley or wheat flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 cup unsalted chicken stock

1/2 cup 10% cream

1 large egg yolk

1 to 2 tablespoons sherry or madeira

Peel and finely dice or coarsely grate the turnip and the carrot. Peel and finely chop the onion. Peel and mince the garlic. Mince the parsley and set it aside in a small bowl with the garlic, the flour, and all the remaining seasonings. 

Heat the butter in a shallow saucepan or medium sized skillet. Once it is melted and foaming, add the turnip, carrot, and onion. Cook gently over medium heat, stirring regularly, for about 10 minutes until the vegetables are softened and reduced in volume but not much browned.

At this point, you should heat a couple tablespoons of oil in another large skillet over medium-high heat in which to cook the chicken cutlets. They will take 3 or 4 minutes per side, and you will likely need to do them in 2 batches, and add a bit more oil to the pan when you start the second batch. Keep them warm in the oven at 200°F until they are all done.

 

While the cutlets cook, finish the sauce. Add the little bowl of seasonings and mix in well. Once there is no visible flour remaining, mix the chicken stock in slowly, stirring constantly. Whisk the egg yolk and sherry into the cream. When the chicken cutlets are all cooked, whisk the cream into the sauce and let it cook for another minute or so until the sauce is thickened. Serve the cutlets with the sauce at once.  

Last year at this time I made Spinach-Spelt Spaetzle or Gnocchi.

Leek & Sorrel Quiche

I do like rye flour for pastry, as it turns out! This has also been an amazing year for sorrel; I started a few cautious pickings almost a month ago, and of course we have very good over-wintered leeks. The best ever, really. Throw in some eggs and cheese, and here it all is in a delightful spring pie. 

 

6 servings

1 hour 45 minutes - 45 minutes prep time

NOT including cooling time

 

 

Make the Pastry:

1 1/2 cups whole rye flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/3 cup cold unsalted butter

6 to 7 tablespoons very cold water

 

In a mixing bowl, mix the flour, salt, and baking powder. Grate in the butter, and mix in with a fork. Slowly stir in the water, a tablespoon or two at a time (start with a couple, and add less at a time as the dough is formed) until the mixture comes together as a fairly stiff, dry dough. Cover it and let it rest for 20 minutes. 

Preheat the oven to 375°F. On a clean, dry counter or sheet of parchment paper, roll out the pastry to fit a 10" pie plate; you will need to sprinkle it with flour to keep it from sticking. Place it in the pie plate and trim and even the edges. Poke it all over with a fork, and bake for 12 to 14 minutes until firm and lightly coloured.

Fill & Bake the Quiche:

2 medium (3 cups chopped) leeks

2 cups chopped sorrel

1/4 cup unsalted butter

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons flour (I used barley flour)

3 large eggs

1 1/4 cups whole milk OR light cream

125 to 150 grams feta OR other cheese

1/4 to 1/3 grated Parmesan

Wash, trim, and chop the leeks. Rinse them again and drain them well. Wash, trim, and chop the sorrel, discarding any damaged leaves or tough stems. 

Heat the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Cook the leeks for at least 5 minutes, stirring regularly, until softened and reduced in volume - but don't let them brown. Add the well drained chopped sorrel leaves and mix them in until wilted. Season with salt and pepper - be mindful that the feta cheese will bring quite a lot of salt - and sprinkle the flour over them. Mix in well until there is no dry white flour left. 

While the vegetables cook, whisk the eggs and milk or cream in a small mixing bowl, and prepare the cheeses. 

When the crust and the vegetables are ready, spread half the vegetables in the pie crust. Sprinkle the feta cheese evenly over them, and top with the remaining vegetables. Carefully pour in the whisked eggs and milk. Sprinkle the Parmesan evenly over the quiche, and bake it at 375°F for 40 to 45 minutes, until firm and lightly browned. Let cool to room temperature or at least just warm to serve. 

Last year at this time I made Turkey-Quinoa Meatloaf.

Cipollata

Is this a soup? A sauce? A topping for bruschetta? Yes to all of those, and more. Adding one cup of stock for the final cooking will make it thick and saucy; for soup add the larger amount of stock. 

 

This is a very traditional recipe made all over Italy, with every part laying claim to their own particular version. Not surprising, given the extreme simplicity of the ingredients. Each place will also have their own particular recommended local onion to be used. Around here, Red Tropea(na) Lunga, Rosso di Milano, and Rosso di Firenze are most likely to be available as red Italian onions. By most likely available, I still mean you are going to have to grow them yourself, probably. But you can get the seed. 

However, any red onion will do, or even yellow ones in a pinch.

I've also served this in its simplest form. I made it vegetarian as it often is, but it does also get cooked sometimes with a little pancetta or with pork bones. It gets elaborated; with tuna or fried fish or squid, stuffed into pies or tossed with pasta, and put on top of bread, foccacia, or pizza. Other things too, no doubt.

I've listed it as something that can be made all year, although the old onions are running out and the new will not be here for a couple of months. A number of the versions I looked at were plainly made with freshly harvested onions, tomatoes and fresh basil. I took it as an opportunity, though, to use up some of the last onions of the season. They are getting a little soft and very inclined to sprout around now. 

As you slice you will think, what a big pile of onions. As you dish it up you will think, what a small pile of onions. If you leave it as a thick soup it will not serve more than 2, but as thinner soup or as a topping for bruschetta, it will go a little further.

 

2 to 4 servings

2 hours prep time

 

500 grams (1 1/4 pounds) Italian red onions

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 cup crushed tomatoes

1 to 2 cups vegetable OR meat stock

2 tablespoons red wine or apple cider vinegar

 

Peel and trim the onions. Cut them in half lengthwise, and lay them flat; cut each half down the middle again. Slice them thinly into quarter-moons. 

 

Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottomed soup pot or skillet, over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring regularly, until the onions caramelize - at least 30 and up to 45 minutes. Keep the onions just sizzling to prevent pre-mature browning. 

Add the crushed tomatoes and cook for another 10 or 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomato liquid evaporated and the remaining tomato pulp also fries/caramelizes slightly. 

Add the stock and vinegar. Simmer gently for another 10 to 15 minutes, until thick. Stir occasionally. 

Last year at this time I made Beets with Chervil.

Barley with Sorrel

Apart from needing to cook the barley in advance, this is very simple. Also apart from having the sorrel. I'm afraid you mostly get that by growing it yourself, but here is your annual reminder that if you have any space to grow it, it is well worth-while. It is such a nice thing to have early in the year, it needs so little attention, and it is really very tasty and versatile. Only the fact that it turns a discouraging army brown when cooked is sad. Close your eyes, or add a little spinach, leeks, or green onions to give the colour (and flavour) a boost. If leeks, they should be chopped finely and cooked in the butter a few minutes by themselves before anything else goes in; otherwise, with they would go in with the sorrel. 

You could sprinkle grated cheese over the top and put it under the broiler until bubbling, and serve it as a light main course, but we had it with some plain baked chicken. Fish would be good too.

 

4 servings

30 minutes prep time NOT including cooking the barley 

 

Cook the Barley:

1/2 cup barley

2 cups water

1/4 teaspoon salt

 

As ever, this is best done in the rice cooker. Put it all in, turn it on, cook. This can be done up to a day in advance. 

 

Finish the Dish:

2 cups finely shredded sorrel

2 tablespoons minced fresh dill

2tablespoons butter

1 cup chicken OR vegetable stock

1/3 cup cream

salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

Wash and pick over the sorrel, discarding any tough or damaged stems and leaves. Drain it well. Wash and dry the dill. Shred them both quite finely. 

Heat the butter in a medium skillet or shallow saucepan, and add the sorrel and dill. Cook over medium heat until wilted and sorrel has turned a dirty khaki colour. Crumble up the barley and add it, then stir in the stock. Cook slowly, stirring regularly, until the mixture is thick. Stir in the cream and season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat through but do not let it boil once the cream is in. Serve at once. 

Last year at this time I made Wonton Soup, No Wontons.