Wednesday, 17 December 2014

Brussels Sprouts & Celeriac Slaw

Brussels sprouts make a great bowl of coleslaw, enhanced with crunchy nuts (whatever kind you like; perhaps to match the oil used), the sweetness and tang from the apple butter (and fruit, if used), and a good  hit of mustard. I always love to have a little red cabbage in my coleslaw; it just adds so much to the colour. 

It doesn't hurt to have this put together a little in advance of serving. That gives the flavours time to meld, and the veggies soften slightly. Leftovers keep reasonably well; better if there is not an apple in it. If you think you have more than you will eat in one sitting, and you want the apple in it, perhaps just add apple to half, or pass it separately.

4 to 6 servings
30 minutes prep time

Make the Dressing:
the juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons walnut OR hazelnut oil
1 tablespoon grainy Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon apple butter
salt and pepper to taste

Whisk or shake together in a small bowl or jar.

Make the Salad:
2 cups finely shredded Brussels sprouts
1 cup grated carrot
1 cup finely sliced red cabbage
1/2 cup chopped nuts
1 small apple AND/OR 1/4 cup raisins (optional)

Wash, trim and finely shred the Brussels sprouts. Peel and grate the carrot (1 medium should do it), and wash, trim and slice the red cabbage. Toss them with the nuts and the salad dressing. You could add a small apple cored and diced, or a handful of raisins, if you wanted to accentuate the sweet notes in the salad.

Last year at this time I made Spaghetti Squash au Gratin

Monday, 15 December 2014

Shepherd's Tourtière (Tourtière Chinois)

I made this as a trial run to see if it would work for our Christmas dinner. It won't, unfortunately. Dad's partner is now well enough to join us in eating dinner, but he is on a very soft diet after being fed through a tube for the better part of 7 months, and I decided that this has just a little too much texture to it, even without the pastry. Most people will be perfectly happy about that, though, so here it is.

We thought it was very tasty, and for anyone who wants a gluten-free tourtière the potato topping works very well. I am not the first person to come up with this idea, but for an amalgamation of two very popular Quebecois dishes, it is surprisingly not common.

4 to 6 servings
2 hours - 1 hour prep time

Shepherd's Tourtière

Make the Potato Topping:
1 kilo (2 pounds) potatoes
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup buttermilk
salt & pepper to taste

Peel (or just wash and trim off the bad spots) the potatoes, and cut them into even chunks. Put them in a large pot with water to cover them, and boil them until tender. Drain them well, and mash them with the butter, buttermilk, salt and pepper. Meanwhile...

Make the Spice Blend:
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
3/4 teaspoon allspice berries
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon rubbed thyme
1 teaspoon rubbed sage
2 teaspoons rubbed savory
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Grind the pepper and allspice thoroughly, and blend with the other spices.

Make the Filling & Finish:
1 large onion
2 cloves of garlic
1 medium carrot
1 stalk celery
OR 1/2 cup diced celeriac
2 cups chopped mushrooms (optional)
1 tablespoon oil or fat, possibly
500 grams (1 pound) ground pork, chicken or turkey
250 grams (1 pound) ground beef
3 tablespoons flour (or other starch to thicken)
1 cup beef broth
1 or 2 bay leaves
1 large egg
a sprinkle of paprika to finish

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Peel and chop the onion finely. Peel and mince the garlic. Peel and finely chop or grate the carrot and celery or celeriac. If you wish to add mushrooms, clean, trim and chop them.

If you choose the chicken or turkey, you will need to add a little fat to the skillet before you get started to help things along, as they are so very lean. Otherwise, add the crumbled up meats to the pan, along with the onions, carrots, celery, and mushrooms if using. Cook, stirring and breaking up the mixture constantly, until it has changed colour all thoughout. Mix in the garlic and the seasonings, including the flour and the bay leaves; cook and stir for a minute or two more, then add the broth. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 5 or 10 minutes until the sauce is thickened and much reduced.

At this point the potatoes should be sufficiently cooked to drain and mash; do so.

Transfer the meat filling to the pie dish or casserole in which you wish to serve the tourtiere. A 9" pie plate will be the right size. Gently spoon the mashed potatoes evenly over the top and smooth them out to form an even, solid top layer. Sprinkle with a little paprika for colour. Bake at 350°F for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until lightly browned and bubbling around the edges. Let rest 5 minutes before serving.

Last year at this time I made Roasted Brussels Sprouts in Spaghetti Squash Nests

Friday, 12 December 2014

Cocoa Cream Roll

I grew up with a copy of  the Toronto Star's "World's Best Recipes" in our kitchen. It came, I'm sure, as a freebie or bonus of some kind with the newspaper at some time, probably in the 1950's. It was actually a good little cookbook in its day; more cosmopolitan than most Canadian cookbooks at the time, although that's not saying much. Maybe it was actually a reprint of an American cookbook - that would explain much.  I can't say Mom (or anyone else) used it all that much, but there it was. I read through it quite a bit - it was quite an entertaining read. I think I may still have a slightly disintegrating copy (it was a cheaply printed little thing, after all) of it somewhere.

I was always intrigued by the recipe for Cocoa Cream Roll, which called for lots of cocoa, whipping cream, eggs, very little sugar, and no flour. This is not that recipe, although I have kept most of those features. Oddly, I have added sugar for once - it really was strangely skimpy with it. At any rate, the cake I have come up with is a rich, dense and chocolatey roll; a wonderful foil for the whipping cream. It would make a terrific Bouche de Noel, and as you may note, it is, like the original, potentially gluten free.

1 hour - 35 minutes prep time for cake
20 minutes prep time to frost
8 to 10 servings

Make the Cake:
4 large egg whites
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
4 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder

Line a 9" x 13" jelly-roll pan or cake pan with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Beat the egg whites until stiff with the salt and cream of tartar, being sure to use a clean, non-plastic mixing bowl.

In a slightly larger mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks, sugar, and vanilla extract for 3 to 4 minutes until very pale and light. You can use the same beaters from the egg whites, without needing to wash them in between.

Sift the cocoa powder and baking powder together, and fold about 1/3 of the cocoa into the egg yolks. Fold in about 1/3 of the egg whites. Then, fold in the remaining cocoa followed by the remaining egg whites. Be very gentle, and do not overmix. A few white streaks are okay. Gently scrape the batter into the prepared pan, and spread it out as evenly as possible.

Bake the cake for 23 to 25 minutes, until it will spring fully back when lightly touched in the middle. Let it cool in the pan for about 5 minutes, then flip it out onto a clean tea towel. Roll it up across the short end, and let it cool completely.

Frost the Cake:
1 1/2 cups whipping cream
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3/4 cup whipping cream
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
AND 1/3 recipe Chocolate Custard Frosting, Chocolate Ganache Frosting, Fabulous Chocolate Frosting, or Cocoa Buttercream Frosting

OR 1 recipe Chocolate Whipped Cream Frosting

Beat the whipping cream with the sugar and vanilla extract until stiff. Use the smaller quantities and make 1/3 recipe of one of the suggested frostings if you want to have a chocolate frosting on the outside of the cake. Or, make the Chocolate Whipped Cream Frosting according to the recipe for chocolate whipped cream throughout.

Gently unroll the cake from the towel, and loosen it from the parchment paper using a broad icing spreader or other very large, thin, flat tool. It may crack some; don't worry, it can be pieced back together but try not to let it crack much. Leave it sitting on the parchment paper.

Spread the inside evenly with half the whipped cream (or all of it if you are frosting the outside with something else) and roll it up again.  Frost the top and sides with the remaing whipped cream, or the other frosting of your choice. Trim off the ends to make a neat presentation. Lift the cake onto the serving plate using the parchment paper, then slide the paper out from underneath. Neaten up the frosting, and wipe any smears and crumbs from around the cake with a dampened paper towel. Spectacular!

Last year at this time my long dry spell came to an end, and I made Dressing (Stuffing) Flavoured Baked Beans

Wednesday, 10 December 2014

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Cranberries & Pears

Still with the pears! I told you there were a lot!  We enjoyed this very much. Actually, I made it twice, sort of. The first time the power went out (and stayed out for 17 hours!) when these had been in the oven for only half an hour. I took them out and finished them in a frying pan (hurray for gas stoves that can be lit with a match) and they were pretty good, although they cooked a bit unevenly that way. They definitely worked better in the oven, and much less fussing required. Good enough for Christmas, I would say; if you can still find pears.  Also, it is my suggestion that you use generous amounts of black pepper - it balances out the sweetness of the other ingredients.

4 to 6 servings
1 hour 30 minutes - 15 minutes prep

1 kilo (2 pounds) sweet potatoes
2 large Bosc pears
1/2 cup fresh or frozen cranberries
1 tablespoon mild vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
a good grating of nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Wash and trim the sweet potatoes, and cut them into bite-sized chunks. Put them in a shallow 9" x 13" roasting (lasagne) pan. Peel and core the pears, and cut them in similar, or slightly larger, chunks. Add them to the sweet potatoes with the whole cranberries, if frozen. Toss it all with the oil until evenly coated, then toss again with the seasonings. Don't be shy with the pepper; it's an important addition to the finished dish.

Roast the sweet potatoes et al. for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, until everything is tender and slightly browned in spots. Stir once, half an hour into the roasting, and if you are starting with fresh cranberries, that is when they should be stirred in.

Tuesday, 9 December 2014

Los Angeles Times Article - "Product of Mexico"

One of the main reasons we eat as much of our food locally grown as we can, is the fact that the only labour laws we can have any impact upon are our own. Not that agricultural labour in Ontario is without it's own problems, but we're a long way from the world descibed in this must-read Los Angeles Times article, "Product of Mexico".

Except, of course, we aren't. Our grocery shelves are just as full of products produced by what might as well be slave labour as the grocery shelves of the United States.

The triumph of modern capitalism is how everthing arrives in stores completely divorced from any indication that it is a product of nature or industry; instead, its appearance is almost magical, and it arrives as a kind of manna from heaven. Yes, yes; we know it came on a truck and not literally falling from the sky. But we take one thing, and the next day if we return to the store it has magically reappeared on the shelf, and there is sits, as though it just sprang up like a kind of mushroom. But like most magic, this is a mirage and the result of immense amounts of labour and energy which have been carefully hidden lest they spoil the effect. Thanks to journalists like Richard Marosi and Don Bartletti, the curtain is pulled back and the reality is shown.

I will be looking forward to the next three installments of this series.

Monday, 8 December 2014

Baked Polenta with Cheese & Sausage

Mr. Ferdzy is a big lover of cornmeal mush, grits, polenta; whatever you want to call it. (He's all over the tortillas and corn chips too, come to think of it.) I am just not a fan of cornmeal mush at breakfast so I try to serve it to him at other times, in other ways. This is one I could stand to do quite often. Apart from all that scrumptious sausage and cheese, it was ridiculously quick and easy to put together. True; the time in the oven doesn't make it a quick week-night supper, but at this time of year I am very happy to have the oven on for a while. Serve this with a green vegetable or a salad, and you have your complete meal.

I must say, I really like Friulano cheese when I can get my hands on it. It has the lovely melty qualities of Mozzerella, but a much more interesting flavour. Mozzerella would do, though. 

4 to 6 servings
1 hour 30 minutes - 30 minutes prep time

Baked Polenta with Cheese & Sausage

3 or 4 cloves of garlic
1 medium onion
400 grams (1 pound, scant) spicy Italian sausage
200 grams (1/2 pound, scant) Friulano cheese, diced
1 tablespoon mild vegetable oil
1/4 cup chopped dried tomatoes
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon rubbed oregano
1 teaspoon rubbed basil
1 teaspoon fennel seed
1/2 teaspoon* hot paprika
1 cup coarse cornmeal (polenta)
3 1/2 cups water
3 cups tomato sauce

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Peel and mince the garlic. Peel and chop the onion. Cut the sausage into bite-sized pieces. Cut the cheese into dice.

Heat the oil in a large ovenproof skillet. Add the onion, and cook, stirring constantly, until softened and slightly browned in spots. Add the sausage pieces, and mix them in well. Once they begin to brown, add the dried tomatoes and the seasonings. Once those are mixed in, hot on their heels add the cornmeal, followed by the water.

Let the mixture simmer for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until it thickens up and begins to "plop". Sprinkle the cubes of cheese evenly over the boiling polenta, but don't stir - just let them settle in. Transfer the skillet (oven mitts on both hands!) to the oven, where bake it for 30 to 40 minutes, until firm and slightly browned. Remove it from the oven and let it rest for 15 minutes before serving. Use those 15 minutes to heat up the tomato sauce, and pass it to be poured over the top of the polenta.

* Most "spicy" Italian sausage hasn't got that much bite to it, and it needs reinforcing, but every so often someone will surprise you. Make sure your sausage isn't, in fact, genuinely spicy spicy Italian sausage before you bring in the cavalry.

Friday, 5 December 2014

Salmon or Trout Tourtière

Wow! I expected this to be more serviceable than exciting, but it was really terrific. It certainly tastes like a gourmet treat, and not like 1 pound of fish has been stretched to feed 6 people. Well, 6 assuming they are not pigs like we are. *ahem*

Use whatever pie crust you like. I've linked to my spelt pie crust recipe, which is a pretty standard recipe except that it has more liquid required to allow for the differently absorbtive qualities of spelt flour. 

Salmon or trout should give equally good results. I  have not tried it with smoked trout (or salmon) but I think they could be very good too.

6 servings
1 hour 45 minutes - 45 minutes prep time

Salmon or Trout Tourtière

3 medium potatoes
pastry for a double crust

2 or 3 medium shallots
1 or 2 cloves of garlic
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
the finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon finely minced fresh dillweed
OR 1 to 2 teaspoons dried dillweed
3/4 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 large egg
1/2 cup rich milk or light cream
500 grams (1 pound) fresh salmon or trout

Advance Prep:
Put the potatoes in a pot with water to cover, and bring them to a boil. Boil them steadily for 10 minutes, then drain them and put them in cold water to cool rapidly. Set them aside until needed. They can be done up to a day ahead, and kept, wrapped, in the refrigerator.

Make the pastry, then while it is resting before being rolled out, make the filling.

Finish the Tourtière:
Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Peel and mince the shallots. Peel and mince the garlic. Heat the butter in a small skillet, and cook the shallots gently, until softened and just slightly browned. Stir in the garlic and all the seasonings, and cook for just a minute more, then remove the shallot mixture to a mixing bowl to cool.

Peel and grate the partially cooked, cooled potatoes - there should be about 2 cups when grated. Add them to the shallots. When the shallots are cool, break in the egg and mix it in. Mix in the cream or milk.

Skin the salmon or trout, check for and remove any bones, and chop it into small pieces. Mix with the shallots and potatoes, etc.

Roll out about 60% of the pastry, and use it to line a 9" pie plate. Fill it with the prepared filling. Roll out the remaining pastry, and cover the pie, pinching it around the edges to seal it well. Cut some vents for the steam, and bake the pie for 45 to 55 minutes, until golden brown. Let rest 15 minutes before serving.

Wednesday, 3 December 2014

Pear & Cranberry Crisp with Granola Topping

I wasn't going to make a pear dessert (or any dessert at all, in fact), but I had just bought some pears in order to make the Pear & Celeriac salad, and there were quite a few left over. Then Mum showed up for lunch, with a big bag of pears. "I just bought a basket of pears and there are too many for me!" So now I had really a lot of pears, and they just don't keep forever. Nothing for it but to cook them... with some cranberries, into a Crisp. Can't complain.

8 servings
1 hour 30 minutes

Make the Topping:
1/3 cup honey
1/3 cup unsalted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/3 cup chopped nuts
1/3 cup raisins
2 cups large flake rolled oats

Melt the honey and butter together, either in a small pot or in a bowl in the microwave. Mix in the vanilla extract.

Chop the nuts and mix them with the raisins and the rolled oats. Mix all of these into the honey-butter mixture. Set aside until needed.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Finish the Crisp:
6 large Bosc pears
2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries
2 tablespoons finely minced preserved ginger

Peel the pears, and core them, and chop them into bite-sized pieces. Put them in a shallow 9" x 13" baking pan (lasagne pan). Mix  in the cranberries. Finely mince the ginger, and sprinkle it over the pears and cranberries. Top with the granola mixture, sprinkled evenly over the fruit.

Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until nicely browned. Serve warm or cool.

Monday, 1 December 2014

Spiced Squash & Pear Soup

You will need a medium-small squash for this; about 2 1/2 pounds, or a very generous kilo. Roast it in the usual way; cut it in half and deseed it; rub the cut edges with a little oil, and roast at 375°F for somewhere between an hour and an hour and a half. As usual, I tend to do this the day before; serving roast squash, and just making extra. Or at least, if I have the oven on for another purpose, it's always a good idea to fling something more in there at the same time if I can.  At any rate, first roast your squash.

4 to 6 servings
45 minutes prep time, not including roasting the squash

Spiced Squash & Pear Soup

Make the Spice Mixture:
2 pods green cardamom
1/2 teaspoon cumin seed
1/2 teaspoon coriander seed
1/2 teaspoon fennel seed
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Crush the cardamom lightly, to allow you to remove the papery green husks. Grind the seeds with the cumin, coriander, fennel and pepper. Mix in the ginger and salt, and set aside. NOTE: if you are using salted stock and butter, omit the salt and adjust the salt once the soup is made.

Make the Soup:
3 cups squash purée
3 cups unsalted chicken stock
3 medium Bosc pears
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons sherry

Put the squash and 1 cup of the chicken stock in a soup pot, and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, peel, core, and slice the pears into thin slices. Heat the butter in a large skillet, and cook the pears until lightly browned on each side. Sprinkle the spice mixture over the pears, and mix it in well; cook for another minute or two until the spices are very fragrant. Transfer the spiced pears to the soup pot. Use a second cup of chicken stock to deglaze the pan, and add it to the soup.

Simmer the soup for 15 minutes or so, until the pears are completely soft. Purée the soup until fairly smooth in texture. Return it to the soup pot, and use the last cup of chicken stock to swish out the food processor. Add it too, to the soup, along with the sherry. Heat the soup through and serve.

Friday, 28 November 2014

Mushroom & Leek (or Onion) Fried Rice

I know it's not local, but there's no getting around it: we really love rice in this household. Consequently, there is usually left-over rice in the fridge, and so fried rice happens on a regular basis.

This particular version can be made in some iteration all year. In the spring, use green onions; whatever green onions are available; a little later garlic scapes would work well. Once the onion greens start to die down, leeks become available. By mid-winter when the leeks are gone, you can use regular onions or shallots - in particular any that are sprouting! Carrots are not available all year; just omit them when you can't get them. As for the mushrooms, you can use whatever kind you like, or best, a mix of several different kinds.

Because there is no protein in this dish, it does very well combined with other Chinese style dishes, or with a piece of chicken, fish or pork served alongside. As usual though, we ate it all ourselves and that was dinner. 

2 to 6 servings
1 hour prep time

1" x 1" x 1" cube of peeled fresh ginger, minced
3 to 4 cloves of garlic
250 grams (1/2 pound) mushrooms
1 large leek
OR 8 to 12 green onions
1 medium carrot
2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil
2 tablespoons apple cider or rice vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 cups cooked white rice
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Peel and mince the ginger finely. Peel and mince the garlic finely, and set them aside together.

Clean and chop the mushrooms. Trim, wash, and chop the leek (or green onions) fairly finely. Peel and grate the carrot.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Cook the mushrooms and carrots until just wilting, then add the leeks or green onions. Cook the lot, stirring frequently, until everything is softened, slightly browned, and well mixed. Sprinkle with the vinegar and soy sauce, and mix it in well

Crumble in the rice, wetting your hand first to keep it from sticking. Continue cooking and turning and mixing the ingredients  until everything is well blended, and the rice begins to crisp up. Mix in the sesame oil well, then remove the pan from the heat and remove the contents to a serving dish. Serve at once.

Wednesday, 26 November 2014

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Mashed Parsnips

Well, this is pretty much exactly what it says on the tin. It's a very nice combination, at any rate.

I felt like having fairly solid lumps of Brussels sprout, so I cut mine in half although they were fairly large. Next time I might cut them smaller, and have the sprouts and mash more of a mixture. It's one of those things where you should just do what you like; it's all good.

4 servings
20 minute prep time

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Mashed Parnsips

450 grams (1 pound) parsnips
450 grams (1 pound) Brussels sprouts
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

Peel and trim the parsnips, and cut them into 1/2 cm slices. Put them in a pot with water to cover and bring them to a boil; boil until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, trim the Brussels sprouts and cut them in halves or quarters depending on size. Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet, and add the Brussels sprouts and about 1 cup of water. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the water is evaporated, and the Brussels sprouts brown in spots. Stir them regularly throughout this process, especially as the water evaporates and the sprouts begin to brown.

When the parsnips are cooked, drain them and mash them with the remaining butter and the salt and pepper. Scrape all the mash into the pan with the Brussels sprouts - or vice versa - and mix well. Once everybody is playing together nicely, tip the whole mess into a serving dish, and serve.

Monday, 24 November 2014

Sweet Roasted Beets

I do try to not serve vegetable dishes loaded with fat, and sugar, and salt. A little bit, sure. But every so often I just have to kick over the traces... and when the results are this good, I feel quite justified. Everybody oohed and aahed over these.

I used my models from the post on MacGregor's Favourite Beets, and I was interested to see that they took a long time to cook. (Longer than I've listed; I'm assuming you are using the usual beets at the usual times.) Suddenly those Victorian instructions to boil your beets for 2 hours make more sense. Still, their firm texture was really quite nice.

There is no reason not to roast the beets in advance the first time; they just may require a little longer in the oven the second time, if they are coming up from being chilled.

4 to 6 servings
1 1/2 hours - 20 minutes prep time

Sweet Roasted Beets

500 grams (1 pound) beets
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons apricot jam
salt & pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Wash the beets, but don't trim them. Wrap them in foil, and bake them for 45 minutes, until moderately soft. Reduce the heat to 350°F.

Run the beets under cold water until they can be handled, then peel them and cut them into bite sized chunks.

While the beets are in the oven, mix the butter, honey, vinegar, and jam in a small heat-proof bowl, and set it on the back of the stove, or microwave it for a few seconds; in either case until the butter and honey melt sufficiently to be well mixed together.

Toss the peeled and cut up beets with the butter mixture, in a roasting pan. Roast them again at 350°F for 30 minutes. Serve at once.